. . . a nomadic people known as the Tuoba group of the Dangxiang were threatened by the neigbouring Tibetan Empire. In 799 AD they agreed to submit to Tang China in return for protection, and moved away from their home on the eastern edge of the Tibetan Plateau to the Ordos Plateau in the great bend of the Yellow River.
Over the next two centuries as the Tang Dynasty fragmented into smaller, quarreling Chinese dynasties, the Dangxiang grew stronger, and by 1038 the Dangxiang were able to establish their own kingdom, known to the Chinese as the Western Xia. For the next 190 years the 10 kings of the Western Xia ruled over a state that encompassed much of present-day Shaanxi, Ningxia and Gansu, until they were overthrown by Genghis Khan and the Mongols.
The story of the Western Xia probably would have been long forgotten by pretty much everyone were it not for one thing – upon their deaths, eight of the Western Xia kings were buried in massive tombs at the foot of the Helan Shan. Today those eight tombs stretch across roughly 40 square kilometres of foothill country, and are probably the most important tourist attraction in Ningxia.
Two tomb complexes and the Helan Shan
The easiest way to see the tombs is simply to get a cab from Yinchuan to the area developed for tourism, but unfortunately, like many Chinese cultural heritage sites, it is somewhat marred by unnecessarily huge concrete pavilions built to accommodate the summer crowds. To see the tombs in a more evocative context, you can walk cross-country about three kilometres to the southwest of the main tourist area, where you can wander around the perimeter of two well-preserved tomb complexes (they are, appropriately, fenced off), with only you and the wind to discuss what might have motivated the Western Xia kings to build these giant beehives.
Looking across the undeveloped tomb sites as stormclouds roll in
That’s not to say the main tourist area isn’t worth a visit, though. For one thing, you’re not restricted to the perimeter of the main tomb complex, so you can get right up close to see just how much dirt went into laying these kings to rest.
Brendan in front of Tomb No. 3
In addition, the museum at the tourist site is well worth a look, with nicely lit exhibits and informative signs in Chinese and English on the unique Xia script, which superficially resembles Chinese but in fact is quite different, the history of the Western Xia kingdom, and the mostly Buddhist iconography of the Xia. You can also have a look at some truly huge statues outside the tombs, which – though the interpretive signs don’t mention it – might just perhaps have as much to do with ancient fertility rites as with Buddhism.
Don’t go looking for the milk of human kindness from these two
HI Emma and Brenden,
Very very interesting Tomb sites…
Happy New Year to you both….Thank you for sharing your stories with us… May you always keep well in your adventures so we can get more stories about china and it’s culture….May you inspire more Chinese people on your walks to the wall.
take care,
skylin
Hi Guys,
Happy New Year!!! Hope you had a great one and the New year brings you better luck! We are now back up to full steam ahead and in order to cover the distance to the finish line in time we are having to walk very very very full days and havn’t got the time to visit many of the nice temples that you guys do. Maybe next time… in a car! Don’t know about you but we are starting to be a little on the chilly side.
I haven’t looked at this site for a week or so now and am most impressed with your reporting and your research and your photographs….but I cannot get over the feeling of loneliness that comes thru in so many of the shots….it must be great for you both to literally “go to town”…stay safe and keep up the great work…Di
Skylin - Happy New Year to you too. We’re taking it slowly so as to look after the foot, but hopefully it shouldn’t be too long before we’re back in Beijing.
Katie and Tarka - Well done on the long miles. You’ll be finished way before us! And the weather? Yep, it’s a little chilly round here too.
Di/Mum - Maybe we’ll address your concern of loneliness in the next Q & A. We really don’t get lonely, but that probably deserves a longer explanation about the difference between towns and the countryside.
Hi Brendan and Emma - it’s Saturday is hot sunny Melbourne, and I just happened onro your site whle reading The Age a la net.
Congratulations on your efforts - what a journey! and also your excellent documentation of the adventure. I appreciate your accuracy and back ground information. You have fallen in love with the Xia Xia tombs and the extraordinary history they represent. I am interested to read your words, as for 2 years (up to 2003), I lived at Bayanhot, which is about 100kms north of Yinchuan in Alsha League, Inner Mongolia. Every time we drove to Yinchuan, through a convenient hole in the Wall, I would wave to the tombs, and I visited them a couple of times. I did not see it mentioned in your text, but my research at the time led me to believe that Genghis Khan suffered the fatal arrow wound near the tombs. There was a huge battle between the Mongolians and local tribes - as he lay dying, he ordered the destruction of the nearby temples. Did you visit those sites - up in the hills behind ths tombs? There are two wonderful padogas obviously dating back to pre-1228 (I think that was the year Ghenkis Khan died). When we first went to Bayanhot, we were able to visit many of these sites without any touristy impedimentia - things changed even while we were there, as their money-earning potential was recognised by the authorities. Also spent many happy hours picnicing along those barren stretches of Wall. Climbed that section where the rammed earth gives way to stone - the workmanship there is extraordinary, especially goven the very difficult terrain. Anyway. now that I have found you, will keep following your progress…. it gets easier now you are past the Helan Shan!!! Go well, don’t freeze! Megan x