Caves on the road between Matisi and Jintasi
In the mountains south of Zhangye, caves are not just limited to the religious shrines at Matisi. All around this area, in every valley, there are caves used by farmers, caves used by shepherds, and still more caves used for religious purposes.
We were lucky enough to visit one such group of caves, Jintasi. These highly significant Buddhist caves are not usually open to tourists, but we were able to arrange a private tour. They are about an hour’s motorbike ride from Matisi through mountainous pasture – stunning green, wide open spaces heaven-sent to graziers and their sheep, goats and cattle.
Brendan’s motorbike driver, Hao Wang Tan, and his niuliang (cowboy) hat
To get to Jintasi we drove past several isolated farmhouses, through a few locked gates, over a treacherous rocky road and up a steep climb. Finally we reached a shady spot where we rested among wild strawberries and beneath spruces that were 900 years old, according to our guide, Zhang Xin Ying. He also mentioned that a wild ape-man (a Yeti, though he didn’t use that word) is rumoured to live in the area.
Mr Zhang led us up the hill (and past some cantankerous cattle) to the caves and unlocked them; at least three doors each with multiple locks just to get in.
The entrance to the caves at Jintasi
Mr Zhang was friendly, well-informed, and most of all, passionate about the caves’ history and their preservation. Our Chinese wasn’t good enough to pick up everything he told us, but even the small amount we could understand was intriguing.
Mr Zhang
Jintasi, or Gold Pagoda Temple, was built in the 4th or 5th century as a place of worship and a place of rest for travelers passing along the Silk Road. The caves are believed by some to be older than the Mogao Caves at Dunhuang (see “The Mogao Caves”).
And in some ways, they are even more spectacular than the Mogao Caves, though on a smaller scale. Where Mogao has fantastically detailed wall murals, Jintasi has statues carved from the cave walls – 270 statues between the two caves. There are rows of flying apsaras and bodhisattvas accompanying the larger statues of the Buddha that occupy pride of place on the altars.
We were asked not to take photos in the caves. However, a few of the Jintasi statues that have fallen from the walls have been removed over the years. Some of these are held at the museum at Matisi, where we were allowed to take photos. Imagine about 150 of these decorating a single altar, and you can get some idea of the magnificence of the interior of these small caves.
The head of a flying apsara from Jintasi
A fallen statue of a “thin Buddha”
hey brendan & emma,
did you see that i got married????
at mom and dads pool, on the 4th of july.
Molly Fox now!!!!!
I have photos of the interior of Jintasi if you want to use them.
Just a couple of years ago, two researchers cut several frescos (of apsaras) off the wall inside the cave (on the far wall) and sold them in Hong Kong. Fortunately they were spotted at the auction house and recovered (and have now been replaced in situ). The researchers were not so lucky….
I don’t know if you got to meet up with Li Xiao Bing (He was due to go on holiday) but he has taken spectacular photos of the whole Matisi area. I have put up a set (with his permission on Flickr….search for Matisi and you will find them. Truly spectacular).
Glad you got to Shengguosi. Few people bother to walk up to it, and they are a friendly bunch there.
Look forward to the next installment of your walk.
Cheers, Mark
Once again, congratulations on the new posting…;your trip is really fantasitc and so thank you for doing all the hard work..if you are writing so much when do you get time to walk, eat and sleep..? thank you for all this great insight and thank you Mark for your imput too x M&D
Hi Em and Brendan
Just like Di, I’m wondering how you find time to write so much detail of your adventure – but I’m just loving reading all about it! Brings back so many memories of the wonderful 5 weeks Kim and I had in Western China about 8 years ago and the Dun Huang Buddhist caves etc. Your photos are spectacular and we really look forward to a huge catch up when you finally get to the end of this magnificent feat.
Kim and Shane will be back in Sydney 22-29 July to prepare for their wedding 11th November. Seems you may not make it but we’ll be thinking of you as you make the most of every moment while you are taking in this wonderful trip of a lifetime.
Lots of love and happy travelling
Jenny
Hey Em and Brendo
Amazing photos and what an adventure. Your site is beautiful. Have had a few phone calls from family who listened to the Adam Spencer interview the other morning – thinking of you and your feet.
Love Kyrie and girls xxx
What an amazing place, the stunning scenery and fabulous history and people you are meeting. It’s such a great photo-diary to read and your experiences really place the reader in the moment. I’m enjoying it a lot!
Take care in your travels
Rachael
Congratulations Molly and Joe Fox!!!
We’re sorry we couldn’t be there for your “wet wedding” – you guys must be floating.
We’re looking forward to seeing you next time we’re in Kansas.
Love,
Emma & Brendan