Sourcing the Muse

THE POWERHOUSE OBJECTS WHICH INSPIRED ROSEMARY ARMSTRONG

Day dress with bustle 1870s

Day dress with bustle 1870sThe introduction of the bustle in the 1870s took the bulk of a garment's fabric to the back of the dress, providing ample opportunity for an elaborately draped and gathered assemblage.

This rather intriguing dress requires further research to reveal its origins. It appears to be made from a fine banana or pineapple cloth which imparts it with lightness but also enough body to create a sculptural effect. The skirt features a dramatic chain-stitch embroidery which looks to be both tambour embroidered and machine chain-stitched.

Probably made of banana or pineapple cloth, in the 1870s.

Gift of Mrs F Baker 1957. H5644



Irish crochet coat early 1900s

Irish crochet coat early 1900sThe opulent fashions of the Edwardian era (1901-10) ushered in a revival of heavy Irish crochet laces. What had previously been a cottage industry taught to Irish women and children in the hope of alleviating their poverty now also became a popular craft amongst the wealthier classes. A large and complex piece such as this coat was probably professionally made in Ireland from where pieces were marketed overseas.

Made of cotton, early 1900s.

Gift of Anne Schofield 1983. A8677



Lace wedding overdress c1927

Lace wedding overdress c1927Weddings often involve months of preparation with much time taken up in the careful selection of a bridal outfit.

The exquisite fabric in this overdress features a floral design of muslin cloth, appliquéd onto a net ground with a chain-stitched outline. Although machine made, the dress would have taken a long time to make and proved costly to purchase.

Lace probably made in Belgium; dress made about 1927.
Purchased 1966. H8003. Reproduction slip.

 



Wedding photograph c1925

Wedding photograph c1925The stiff corsetted silhouette and exaggerated shaping of Victorian and Edwardian dress gave way to much simpler forms in the 1920s, and skirts were shortened to reveal previously unseen legs. The relatively plain forms of wedding and evening dresses were embellished with a shimmering surface of embroidery and beads.

Wedding dress and photograph, cream silk satin, with bugle beads and diamantes, probably made in Australia about 1925. Photograph by Alan Rowe.

Gift of Lyndall Russell 1983. A9865

Interview with Rosemary Armstrong