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Sourcing the Muse

THE POWERHOUSE OBJECTS WHICH INSPIRED GWENDOLYNNE BURKIN

Barrette boot c1895

Barrette boot c1895The 13 straps of this barrette boot are fastened with buttons and embroidered with jet beads. It would have required plenty of time and patience to put on, but the use of a buttonhook would have speeded up the process. The openwork design provided a glimpse of the often brightly patterned stockings that were worn beneath.

Made by the Joseph Box company about 1895.
Purchased 1942. H4448-79

 



Bodice c1905

Bodice with leg-of-mutton sleeves c1905This bodice was originally part of a two-piece outfit. The full leg-of-mutton sleeve became popular from the mid 1890s to the early 1900s, a revival of the equally impractical gigot sleeve of the 1830s. Here it is gathered and folded to create a large bow-like effect across the shoulder. The soft ruched silk chiffon down the front is deceptive: inside the bodice features a heavily boned lining and a waistband to help cinch the waist. The effect of this broad sleeve was to make the corseted waist seem even smaller and more fragile.

Cream silk ottoman, silk chiffon and moiré ribbon. Label inside waistband 'Sénéchal, 12 Lower Seymour St, Portman Sqr. W.' Made in England, about 1905. Purchased 1959. H6199



Cocktail hat c1955

Cocktail hat c1955
Black velvet and osprey feathers. Made by Winifred Hurt in Australia around 1955.

Winifred Hurt Collection. Gift of Mr Ray Freeman 1992. 92/378

 



Corset c1895

Corset c1895The corset was used to fashion the shape of the body into the silhouette desired by contemporary notions of beauty and the fashions of the day. This corset cinches the waist and lifts the bosom, enhancing its size and shape and creating an hourglass figure. The rows of machine stitching also incorporate rows of boning and a stiff metal busk at the front, creating the rigid shape. It is hard to believe that such a finely crafted, beautiful piece of work was not meant to be seen!

Cotton-drill trimmed with machine-made torchon lace, made about 1895. Purchased 1985. 85/1670



Crocodile skin handbag c1940

Crocodile skin handbag c1940While it may seem a little macabre today this crocodile-skin clutchbag with claw trim was the height of fashion in the 1940s. The bag's original owner emigrated to Australia from Vienna in 1930s. This bag was a gift, sent by her father in 1941.

Purchased 1994. 94/103/2



The Delineator magazine 1908

Pages from 'The Delineator' magazine 1908In 1873 the Butterick Publishing company launched a new publication called The Delineator. Originally intended to market Butterick dress patterns it quickly became a more general women's magazine with a variety of articles from fashion and beauty to women's issues.

The Delineator 1908, published in England.
Gift of Anne Schofield (donation under the Cultural Gifts Program) 1984. P3583-4:5



Dress by Emanuel Ungaro c1965

Dress by Emanuel Ungaro c1965French designer, Emanuel Ungaro trained with André Courrèges whose youthful 'space age' collection launched in 1964 was to dramatically change the look of fashion.

Ungaro's cream wool knit dress reflects the stark simple shapes Courrèges introduced, here softened by the fluid organic trim worked in cream plastic imitation wet look leather.

Designed in France, made in Italy about 1965.
Gift of Lady Fairfax, 1986. 86/1498-1:2

 



Fashion plate - Twelve fashionable head dresses of 1778

Fashion plate - 12 fashionable head dresses of 1778Fashion plates were first produced in France in the late 1600s. By the 1770s the development of printing technology and the rising literacy rate made the production of fashion plates both profitable and a highly important medium for advertising the latest fashions and accessories.

Gift of Mr H Matthews 1982. P3273-14



Jabot c1930

Jabot c1930Items from men's wardrobes have often found their way into women's fashion. This form of neckwear has a long history as a male accessory from the 1600s up to the 1970s when it was part of the rather theatrical flavour of the 'Peacock Revolution'. However in the early to mid 1900s jabots like this became a popular and relatively inexpensive way for women to enliven a plain suit or dress.

Made about 1930. Gift of Anne Schofield (donation under the Cultural Gifts Program) 1984. A10848



Leather gloves c1935

Leather gloves c1935The 1930s saw a revival of the gauntlet-style glove, inspired by early 17th century shapes. The form was well suited to the Art Deco pattern seen in this example.

Leather, made in France for David Jones about 1935. Winifred Hurt Collection. Gift of Mr Ray Freeman 1992. 92/366



Pocket late 1800s

Pocket late 1800s
Pockets like this were worn tied around the waist under women's dress. A slit in the skirt provided access to the pocket.

Cream-twill linen, machine sewn, made in the second half of the 1800s. Gift of Mrs Jane Gray, 1984. 85/945-1

 

Interview with Gwendolynne Burkin