
This photograph is the last in a didactic display in the Powerhouse Museum collection which illustrates the complete process of manufacturing pearl buttons as it was carried out in Australia, from diving for shell to marketing the finished article. The display was acquired from the Pearl Button Manufacturing Company of Foster Street, Sydney, in 1933.
Pearl divers in places such as Thursday Island, Broome and Port Darwin harvested the Golden Lip pearl shell, (Pinctada maxima), from which the buttons were made. After cutting, splitting, grinding, fashioning, hole drilling and polishing, final stage in the process of manufacture was grading. Buttons were examined on both sides by hand and sorted into three grades. After grading, they were sewn onto cards. The highest grade, ‘firsts’ were were sewn onto silver card and the ‘seconds’ onto blue cards. In accordance with the international standard of the day, (the photograph was acquired in 1933), two dozen buttons were sewn onto each card.
Buttons made from pearl shell were valued because they were durable and retained their lustre unaffected by washing. After World War 2, plastics replaced pearl shell as the preferred material for buttons.
The pearl shell button spawned a whole subculture in the ‘pearlies’ of London’s East End and its appeal has endured as both a utilitarian object and a source of inspiration for contemporary designers like Rowena Gough, whose neckpiece, Mobius Bandolier is part of the Powerhouse Museum Collection.
The Torres Strait supplied over half the world demand for pearl shell in the 1890s. In addition to buttons, pearl shell was used for cutlery, hair combs, jewellery, decorative objects and inlay for furniture. The Powerhouse Museum collection includes a variety of objects made from pearl shell.
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