Belt Toggles

These are some of the 249 toggles collected in Peking by Hedda and Alastair Morrison. Most of them were purchased from markets outside Chongwenmen Gate, and in Liulichang, the antiques street. The toggles functioned as weights to counterbalance dress accessories such as tobacco pouches. They are similar to Japanese netsuke in terms of their function, though are less well known. The netsuke tradition, however, is thought to have originated in China during the Song dynasty, 970-1279. Toggles were made from a variety of materials including ivory, wood, metal, amethyst, turquoise and jade. Their motifs were often symbolic, with auspicious connotations. Alastair recalls: 'Most of the toggles which Hedda and I collected were bought in Peking in 1940 and 1941. Peking in those days had many antique shops scattered all over the city as well as special fairs and markets. Collecting toggles was always interesting, indeed it was exciting. You never knew what you might turn up in the jade market, which was held early in the morning, or in some small and unexpected shop in an out of the way part of the city. One of the interesting things in the jade market was to see dealers bargaining confidently amongst themselves by a system of hand signals, their hands clasped but covered by their sleeves. Prices were low but discoveries were always accompanied by keen negotiations. No dealer expected to be paid what he first asked and they seemed to enjoy the argument as much as we did. I bought some more examples later in Shanghai and Chungking.' (From a manuscript by Alastair Morrison titled 'Talk to the Asian Society Council', 24 September 1979.)

92/570 Dress accessory, toggle in the shape of a woven basket, wood, China, c. 1700-1940 92/564 Dress accessory, toggle, wood, China, c. 1700-1940 92/486 Dress accessory, toggle in the shape of a zither in a silk cover, jade, China, c. 1700-1940 92/551 Dress accessory, toggle, wood, China, c. 1700-1940 92/673 Dress accessory, toggle in the form of a dragon with a moveable 'pearl' in its mouth, ivory, China, c. 1700-1940
92/495 Dress accessory, toggle in the shape of a cat, jade, China c. 1700-1940 92/681 Dress accessory, toggle container in the shape of a gourd, ivory, metal alloy, China, c. 1700-1940 92/588 Dress accessory, toggle in the shape of branches of flowering plum blossom, wood, China, c. 1700-1940 92/435 Dress accessory, toggle in the shape of two young boys playing, metal alloy [brass], China, c. 1700-1940 92/546 Dress accessory, toggle in the shape of a dog sitting on a roof tile, wood, China, c. 1700-1940
92/473 Dress accessory, toggle, agate and silver, China, c. 1700-1940 92/480 Dress accessory, toggle, lacquered seedpod, metal, silver alloy, China, c. 1700-1940 92/503 Dress accessory, toggle in the shape of a pig, jade, China c. 1700-1940 92/693 Dress accessory, toggle in the form of two entwined, tigers, rock crystal, rose quartz, seed pearls, silk, China, c. 1700-1940 92/538 Dress accessory, toggle in the shape of a seated figure holding a book, wood, China, c. 1700-1940
92/622 Dress accessory, toggle in the shape of a slice of lotus root, ivory, China, c. 1700-1940 92/453 Dress accessory, toggle in the shape of 'lingzhi' fungus or a 'ruyi' or cloud head sceptre, jade, China, c. 1700-1940 92/475 Dress accessory, toggle, wood and silver, China, c. 1700-1940 92/479 Dress accessory, toggle, wood inlaid with silver, China, c. 1700-1940 92/484 Dress accessory, toggle in the shape of a travelling knife set, wood, bone, metal, China, c. 1700-1940
92/522 Dress accessory, toggle in the shape of 'lingzhi' fungus, wood, China c. 1700-1940 92/476 Dress accessory, toggle, gilla bean and silver, China, c. 1700-1940 92/707 Dress accessory, toggle in the shape of two children tumbling in an embrace, amber, China, c. 1700-1940 92/517 Dress accessory, toggle in the shape of 'lingzhi' fungus, wood, China c. 1700-1940 92/563 Dress accessory, toggle in the shape of a crane, fan and books wrapped in a carrying cloth, bamboo, China, c. 1700-1940