This black silk slip, black silk chiffon overdress and black patent leather shoes were designed for Chanel, Paris, by Karl Lagerfeld. The ensemble was worn by Catherine Martin to a dinner hosted by Erin Lauder to celebrate winning a Tony Award for La Boheme in 2003. It is part of a collection of Australian and international designer clothing, shoes and bags from the personal wardrobe of Catherine Martin.

Catherine Martin is one of Australia's outstanding creative talents, working as a production designer, film producer and costume designer on significant film, theatre and event productions including Strictly Ballroom, Moulin Rouge, Romeo + Juliet, La Bohème and Australia. Martin's creative collaboration with husband Baz Luhrmann has produced a visually lush, musically exhilarating, poetic style of storytelling.

Her personal wardrobe reflects Martin's romantic style, knowledge of fashion history and passion for handcrafted, artisanal textiles; an aesthetic that is also a key part of her designs for film, theatre, interior design and fashion. The collection includes outfits Martin wore to premiers and award nights including the evening dress she wore to the 74th Academy Awards where she received two Academy Awards for Best Costume Design and Best Art Direction.

Catherine Martin's personal wardrobe enhances the Museum's contemporary fashion and dress collection with significant examples of work from Australian and international designer labels including Easton Pearson, Collette Dinnigan, Willow, Akira Isogawa, Chanel, Mui Mui, Jill Sander, Comme des Garçons and Prada.

In addition the Catherine Martin collection includes a group of costumes and accessories from the films Romeo + Juliet (1996) and Australia (2008), set models from the film Australia (2008) and costumes and accessories from the theatre production of Puccini's opera La Boheme (2003). A key feature of these productions is the costuming and sets which reflect the extensive research and inventive interpretation of references drawn from across history and cultures. These costumes enhance the Museum's existing collection of costumes for the Baz Luhrmann films Strictly Ballroom (1992) (92/1900-92/1939) and Moulin Rouge! (2001) (2008/199/1-17).

This collection reflects the diverse approaches Martin and her team take in costuming film and theatre productions. In Romeo + Juliet, Leonardo DiCaprio's Romeo wears an off the shelf Prada shirt that has been skillfully distressed to appear dirty and bloodied, while his companions the Montague boys appear in colourful screenprinted and handpainted Hawaiian shirts. The Australia costumes reflect the design and production teams' careful research into 1930s and 1940s clothing which they have skilfully re-interpreted and reproduced for the film. In contrast the costumes for the four key characters from La Bohème are an eclectic mix of contemporary mass market workwear, designer labels and newly created garments.

- Glynis Jones, Curator, Fashion and Dress, December 2010

Designed by Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel, Paris.

Worn by Catherine Martin to a dinner celebrating her Tony Award for La Bohème, hosted by Erin Lauder in 2003. The dress was purchased from Chanel, New York and also worn to celebrate Karl Lagerfeld having won the CFDA Award.

Catherine Martin was born in Sydney in 1965. She completed a Diploma Design course at the National Institute of Dramatic Arts in Sydney. It was here that she met and started working on projects with her future husband and creative partner Baz Luhrmann (b 1962).

Martin's first design project with Luhrmann was his experimental opera entitled Lake Lost devised for the Australian Opera in 1987, for which she and her co-designer Angus Strathie won a Victorian Green Room Award for Best Design. She has designed all of Luhrmann's subsequent productions including Strictly Ballroom (1992), Romeo + Juliet (1996) for which she received an Academy Award nomination for Best Art Direction, A Midsummer Night's Dream (various season's 1993, 1994, 1996, 2000, 2003) Moulin Rouge (2001) for which Martin won Academy Awards for Best Costume Design and best Production Design, La Bohème (various productions, 1990, 1993, 1996, 2002, 2003, 2004) and Australia (2008).

Catherine Martin and Baz Luhrmann married in 1997 and in the same year co-founded their film, theatre and entertainment production company Bazmark Inq and its subsidiaries Bazmark Live and Bazmark Music.

Black silk, knee length, chiffon dress with high round neckline, centre front zipper to below bust with ties at neckline, narrow pleated cap sleeve. Waist area is pleated. Black metal Chanel logo is sewn to left hip area.

Black, silk, chiffon, knee length slip with narrow shoulder straps, deep v neck and structured waist and bust. Two black plastic buttons and zip centre back. Plastic buttons have white four leaf clover outline detail with a gold chanel logo in the centre of clover outline.

Black patent leather shoes with silver metal 'pearl', chain link and Chanel logo anklet trim. Shoes have pointed toe and kitten heel. Lining and trim on upper vamp is black quilted non-patent leather. Shoe has black leather ankle strap with velcro fastenings. Ankle strap is decorated with a single silver metal 'pearl' with gold metal Chanel logo applied.

Designed: Lagerfeld, Karl; Paris, France; 2003

Used: Martin, Catherine; New York, USA; 2003

2011/43/73

2003