This ensemble, consisting of a black knit tube dress and double-breasted jacket, was designed by Junya Watanabe for Tokyo's Commes des Garcons. It is part of a collection of Australian and international designer clothing, shoes and bags from the personal wardrobe of Catherine Martin.

Catherine Martin is one of Australia's outstanding creative talents, working as a production designer, film producer and costume designer on significant film, theatre and event productions including Strictly Ballroom, Moulin Rouge, Romeo + Juliet, La Bohème and Australia. Martin's creative collaboration with husband Baz Luhrmann has produced a visually lush, musically exhilarating, poetic style of storytelling.

Her personal wardrobe reflects Martin's romantic style, knowledge of fashion history and passion for handcrafted, artisanal textiles; an aesthetic that is also a key part of her designs for film, theatre, interior design and fashion. The collection includes outfits Martin wore to premiers and award nights including the evening dress she wore to the 74th Academy Awards where she received two Academy Awards for Best Costume Design and Best Art Direction.

Catherine Martin's personal wardrobe enhances the Museum's contemporary fashion and dress collection with significant examples of work from Australian and international designer labels including Easton Pearson, Collette Dinnigan, Willow, Akira Isogawa, Chanel, Mui Mui, Jill Sander, Comme des Garçons and Prada.

In addition the Catherine Martin collection includes a group of costumes and accessories from the films Romeo + Juliet (1996) and Australia (2008), set models from the film Australia (2008) and costumes and accessories from the theatre production of Puccini's opera La Boheme (2003). A key feature of these productions is the costuming and sets which reflect the extensive research and inventive interpretation of references drawn from across history and cultures. These costumes enhance the Museum's existing collection of costumes for the Baz Luhrmann films Strictly Ballroom (1992) (92/1900-92/1939) and Moulin Rouge! (2001) (2008/199/1-17).

This collection reflects the diverse approaches Martin and her team take in costuming film and theatre productions. In Romeo + Juliet, Leonardo DiCaprio's Romeo wears an off the shelf Prada shirt that has been skillfully distressed to appear dirty and bloodied, while his companions the Montague boys appear in colourful screenprinted and handpainted Hawaiian shirts. The Australia costumes reflect the design and production teams' careful research into 1930s and 1940s clothing which they have skilfully re-interpreted and reproduced for the film. In contrast the costumes for the four key characters from La Bohème are an eclectic mix of contemporary mass market workwear, designer labels and newly created garments.

- Glynis Jones, Curator, Fashion and Dress, December 2010

Designed by Junya Watanabe for Commes des Garcons.

This ensemble was purchased in Japan from the Commes des Garcons Tokyo store while Catherine Martin was on the publicity tour for Romeo and Juliet in 1996.

Catherine Martin was born in Sydney in 1965. She completed a Diploma Design course at the National Institute of Dramatic Arts in Sydney. It was here that she met and started working on projects with her future husband and creative partner Baz Luhrmann (b 1962).

Martin's first design project with Luhrmann was his experimental opera entitled Lake Lost devised for the Australian Opera in 1987, for which she and her co-designer Angus Strathie won a Victorian Green Room Award for Best Design. She has designed all of Luhrmann's subsequent productions including Strictly Ballroom (1992), Romeo + Juliet (1996) for which she received an Academy Award nomination for Best Art Direction, A Midsummer Night's Dream (various season's 1993, 1994, 1996, 2000, 2003) Moulin Rouge (2001) for which Martin won Academy Awards for Best Costume Design and best Production Design, La Bohème (various productions, 1990, 1993, 1996, 2002, 2003, 2004) and Australia (2008).

Catherine Martin and Baz Luhrmann married in 1997 and in the same year co-founded their film, theatre and entertainment production company Bazmark Inq and its subsidiaries Bazmark Live and Bazmark Music.

Clothing ensemble, womens, tube dress and jacket, acrylic wool polyurethane nylon blend / silk, designed by Junya Watanabe, made by Commes des Garcons, Japan, worn by Catherine Martin, Australia, 1996

Ensemble comprising dress and jacket. Calf length, sleeveless tube dress in black wool/ polyurethane/nylon knit fabric features asymmetrical seams and pouched form. Loose fitting mid thigh length double breasted black wool jacket. Features long sleeves, wide notched collar, two rows of three pairs of buttons to double breasted fastening, centre back vent, two welt pockets and large applied self fabric flower on proper left chest.

Designed: Junya, Watanabe; Tokyo, Japan; 1996

Made: 1996

Owned: Martin, Catherine;

Tube dress - white label top middle back - "Robes de Chambre / COMMES des GARCONS / MADE IN JAPAN"
Tube dress - 2 white labels top middle back - care instructions in English, French and Japanese.
Jacket - white label top middle back - "Robes de Chambre / COMMES des GARCONS / MADE IN JAPAN"
Jacket - 2 white labels proper left side seam under arm - care instructions in English, French and Japanese.

2011/43/26

1996

335 mm