This coat was designed by Yohji Yamamoto (born in Tokyo 1943). Yamamoto received a law degree before studying fashion at Bunka College of Fashion. He established his business in Tokyo in 1972, and in 1981 established his company in France and opened a boutique in Paris.
Along with Issey Miyake and Rei Kawakubo, Yohji Yamamoto stunned the fashion establishment in the early 1980s with collections that challenged conventional (Western) notions of dress, revoking traditional forms of tailored garments intended to fit body contours. Their designs were often monochromatic, asymmetrical, unstructured and oversized.
Yamamoto also shares an interest in innovative textiles and construction techniques with fellow Japanese designers Issey Miyake and Rei Kawakubo. Unlike the latter two designers, however, following a phase of deconstructionism in the mid 1980s Yohji Yamamoto inclined more towards tailored designs that use a full range of couture techniques, that are more in tune with Western dressmaking. Yamamoto never deviates far from the contexts of Western culture, which makes him one of the Japanese designers best understood in the West.
The piece forms part of The Gene Sherman Collection of Japanese fashion and accessories, with a focus on the work of Issey Miyake, Yohji Yanamoto, Comme des Garçons and the Japanese-Australian designer Akira Isogawa, formed from the mid 1980s to 2004. The Collection reflects Sherman's individual style as well as her appreciation of Japanese design. Dr Gene Sherman is Director of Sherman Contemporary Art Foundation (SCAF) in Paddington, Sydney. Its predecessor, Sherman Galleries, founded in 1986, was one of Australia's major commercial art galleries until its closure in 2007. As director of Sherman Galleries, Dr Sherman organised many exhibitions of contemporary art from Australia and the Asia-Pacific region and has played an important role connecting art and artists in Australia and the Asia-Pacific region. Dr Gene Sherman was a trustee of the Powerhouse Museum from 1995 to 2001 and special advisor to the Museum from 2002 to 2004. Born in South Africa, Sherman lives in Sydney with her husband Brian Sherman.
The coat was designed by Yohji Yamamoto for the 1994-95 Autumn / Winter collection.
Information from Yohji Yamamoto Inc. dated 26/2/09: "Season: 94-95Autumn/Winter. Date and place of the show in Paris: 1994/3/5 at La Sorbonne. Theme: Kimono. Text presented on our book ''Talking to myself'': (When East meets West, a taboo is lifted. Kimonos converge with the dandy look, and crinolines pair up with biker boots. Plucking the colors of prints, light-knit kimonos reinvent a sense and fragile form of seduction".
Dr Gene Sherman has been collecting avant-garde Japanese fashion for over 20 years. Dr Sherman bought her first pieces of Japanese clothing at Rhonda Parry's boutique in Double Bay in the mid 1980s. Since then, she has primarily worn clothes designed by Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons. Gene Sherman maintains a wearing wardrobe of approximately 20 pieces. She has said "when I acquire something, I retire a piece into my archive". Sherman had boxes made to museum standards and stored 'retired' pieces from the collection in her attic.
Referring to this garment Gene Sherman has said: "Yohiji Yamamoto black evening satin coat. Bought in Tokyo early 90's worn from time to time. Related to my silk reversible contemporary Miyake short kimono. Bought with Chikako Tatsuuma in early 90's in Tokyo. Still wear every winter. [Gene Sherman collection note book 2009/16/62)
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