This skirt was designed by Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garçons. Kawakubo, born in 1942 in Japan, is widely acknowledged one of the world's most original and influential fashion designers. After studying literature and fine arts at Keio University, she worked for several years in advertising before establishing her own clothing label, 'Comme des Garçons' (Like some boys') in Japan in 1973.
Although initially using monochromatic black as her signature, Kawakubo introduced colour into later collections which, combined with daring and unexpected combinations of textures and patterns, have become her hallmarks. Comme des Garçons garments are generally layered, asymmetrical, unstructured and sometimes padded. She introduced new approach to cutting and construction. fabrics often incorporating rips, holes and frayed seams.
The piece forms part of The Gene Sherman Collection of Japanese fashion and accessories with a focus on the work of Issey Miyake, Yohji Yanamoto, Comme des Garçons and the Japanese-Australian designer Akira Isogawa formed from the late 1980s to 2000. The Collection reflects Sherman's individual style as well as her appreciation of Japanese design. Dr Gene Sherman is Director of Sherman Contemporary Art Foundation (SCAF) in Paddington, Sydney. Its predecessor, Sherman Galleries, founded in 1988, was one of Australia's major commercial art galleries, until it closed in 2007. As director of Sherman Galleries, Dr Sherman organised many exhibitions of contemporary art from Australia and the Asia-Pacific region and has played an important role connecting art and artists in Australia and the Asia-Pacific region. Dr Gene Sherman was a trustee of the Powerhouse Museum from 1995 to 2001 and special advisor to the Museum from 2002 to 2004. Born in South Africa, Sherman lives in Sydney with her husband Brian Sherman.
The skirt was designed by Comme des Garçons for the 2004 Spring / Summer collection.
Information provided by Comme des Garçons Co. Ltd. 25/2/09: "04 Spring Summer. Collection Theme: Excellent abstract".
Referring to this sgarment Gene Sherman said: "Comme early 90's Tokyo. Short skirt many many layers of white and off white underskirts wrap around. Fastened with a safety pin." [Gene Sherman's collection note book 2009/16/62)
"This is a Comme wraparound shirt skirt. I do remember this very well. It's the early 90s in Tokyo. I have so many of these short skirts because in the winter I like to wear leggings, warm leggings, with these wraparound short skirts and boots. This is my comfortable gear, my casual gear."
"There are many layers. It reminds me a little, now that I look at it again, of Ai Weiwei's World map created in 2006 for the Sydney Biennale, which was shown at the Art Gallery of New South Wales. He cut fabric into very thin layers, like this and created a huge - in terms of height, map. I don't know how many layers this has, maybe four? Not that many....So the underskirt is white or off-white, really off-white and the top is either black or navy blue; it looks black." (Interview with Gene Sherman by Claire Roberts, 15 December 2008)
Dr Gene Sherman has been collecting avant-garde Japanese fashion for about 20 years. Dr Sherman bought her first pieces of Japanese clothing at Rhonda Parry's boutique in Double Bay in the late 1980s. Since then, she has primarily worn clothes designed by Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Comme des Garçons. Gene Sherman maintains a wearing wardrobe of approximately 20 pieces. She has said "when I acquire something, I retire a piece into my archived pieces". Sherman had boxes made to museum standards and store 'retired' from the collection in her attic.
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