This men's coat or durumagi is the most common style of traditional coat worn in contemporary Korea and is a particularly good example. The name 'durumagi' comes from its design, which means 'closed all around' as other coat designs usually have a split at the side or back.

This type of long and broad coat was worn by upper class men even before the 6th century in Korea, and developed into various styles such as changui and dopo, all with large flowing sleeves. Later in the Joseon dynasty (1932-1910), this style was much modified and became the durumagi.

Durumagi is simpler in overall design and has narrower sleeves than the ceremonial robes worn by aristocrats during the Joseon dynasty (1392-1910). In 1884, when King Gojong (1863-1907) decreed the costume regulation, which prohibited expensive, extravagant costumes, the durumagi began to be worn by people of all classes and ages, including women.

This particular durumagi is padded with cotton for warmth for the winter season. It is rare to find a padded coat in this style as it is used only for special occasions.

Min-Jung Kim
Curator, Asian Arts & Design
July 2007

This coat was designed and made by Lee Ri-Ja, who played a significant role in modifying the design of Korean traditional dress to contemporary style. This is the most common style of traditional overcoat worn by men in contemporary Korea.

Durumagi is simpler in overall design and has narrower sleeves than the ceremonial robes worn by aristocrats during the Joseon dynasty (1392-1910). In 1884, when King Gojong (1863-1907) decreed the costume regulation, which prohibited expensive, extravagant costumes, the durumagi began to be worn by people of all classes, ages, including women. This particular durumagi was further modified to suit contemporary Korea by Lee Ri-Ja.

This coat was worn by Dr. Dong-Hwa Huh whose collection was displayed at the Powerhouse Museum in 1998 for the exhibition "Rapt in colour: Korean costumes and textiles from Joseon dynasty". Dr. Huh is Director of the Museum of Korean Embroidery and has held textile exhibitions in many countries including the United States, Japan, Europe and Australia. Dr Dong-Hwa Huh wore this coat for the opening of an exhibition held in the United States in 1970s.

Coat (durumagi) and matching scarf, traditional Korean dress, silk / cotton / paper, made by Lee Ri-Ja, Seoul, Korea, 1970-1979

An orange silk man's coat padded with cotton. It has long, full shaped sleeves and cross over front which fastens with long ties. A disposable white collar (dongjeong) made of paper covered with thin nylon attached to the collar (git). The lining is light pink silk woven in a floral patten. The matching scarf of orange silk is fringed at each end.

Made: 1970 - 1979

2007/207/3

1970 - 1979

1480 mm