Clothing is one of the richest expressions of material culture helping to define cultural identity. The loose fitting trousers and jacket or cheongsam featured in this collection of children's clothing is one of the most recognisable of national costumes and is significant as it represents a common style of clothing that has existed throughout China's long history.

Traditional Chinese children's costume was styled along the same lines as adult clothing. Chinese clothing is simple in construction, practical and suits all body shapes. A core value and fundamental belief in Chinese society is that obligations to ancestors must be fulfilled. Historically, clothes that were uniform showed a person's place within a clan. Every man and woman was designated a place in society with a complex system of dress regulations imposed originating as far back as the Zhou Dynasty (122BCE-221BCE). Clothing was a means of differentiating between various levels of society and as a measure of controlling the populace.

Political upheaval during the middle years of the twentieth century impacted on traditional costume in China and by the 1980s the wearing of traditional dress was in decline as increased urbanisation and a predilection for things imported from the west began to influence dress.

Children's clothing in China is styled along the same lines as adult costumes. Cotton fabric was used for everyday clothing and silks and satins were saved for special occasions. After the founding of the Republic of China in 1912, formal wear for men became a short jacket reaching just below the waist known as a ma kwa, (meaning riding jacket). The ma kwa was worn with a cheongsam and became the official dress for men of importance on ceremonial occasions. Originally the ma kwa fastened over to the right but later as with the everyday jacket, it fastened down the centre front with five loops and buttons, a stand up collar, slits at the side seams and centre back and was made of black silk damask lined with blue silk. This jacket is fastened with an odd number of loops and buttons, odd numbers being considered lucky.

This jacket (ma kwa) was worn by the donor when he was three years old, on the occasion of his cousin's wedding in Hong Kong in 1936. The donor was the flower boy and had the responsibility of carrying the flowers and ribbons. The donor recalls that the jacket was like a 'tuxedo for children'.

This collection of clothing including this ma kwa, was donated to the Powerhouse Museum in appreciation of the Museum's contribution to multiculturalism in Australia. The donor feels a special connection to Australia as his sister and his son chose to make Australia their home. He regularly visits his son who lives in Sydney.

The clothing represents for the donor fond memories of a carefree childhood and family life in contrast to the horrors and deprivation he witnessed living under the Japanese occupation of Hong Kong from November 1941 to August 1945.

Jacket (ma kwa), boys, handmade, silk satin, made by Lai Cheung, Hong Kong, 1936

A hand made bespoke jacket (ma kwa) for a young boy in black satin. The satin features a small embroidered dot design, reminiscent of reptile-skin. The garment has a mandarin collar and opens at the centre front and is fastened by five loop and button fastenings. It is lined with pale blue silk.

Made: Hong Kong; 1936

White label with border, 'Lai Cheung Hong Kong' and Chinese characters embroidered in red.

2007/114/6

1936

728 mm