This magnificent opera cape was made by Liberty of London in about 1920. The rich brocaded silk is a very fine example of Liberty's exotic textiles and is probably a Liberty 'Art Fabric'. The gold brocaded pattern finishes just before the hem, revealing softly coloured silk which appears to be hand-painted. The fur collar adds to the very exclusive styling of this garment.

Arthur Lasenby Liberty (1843-1917) was very influential in the design of English women's dress and interiors. He opened the Lasenby Liberty and Co. East India House in London in 1875. It was packed with exotic goods from China, India and Japan, reflecting the breadth of British colonial interests. The influence of Japan in particular, and his involvement with artists of the Aesthetic Movement, resulted in the production of comfortable and beautiful gowns. Liberty's focus was predominantly in textiles. He took a keen interest in what sold and made friendships with many artists and writers who were his clients. Sir George Birdwood stated at the Society of Arts in 1900 that Liberty's commercial success was achieved 'on artistic lines...his predominating purpose throughout having been to seek...to beautify and dignify all the material accessories of our characteristic English home life.'

Lasenby Liberty's artistic influence continued long after his death and the Liberty brand, with its unique textile specialisation, is still operating.

Inspired by textiles he had imported from overseas, Lasenby Liberty organised factories to produce similar fabrics in England and registered his designs. It is thought that this fabric is an example of a Liberty 'Art Fabric', which were manufactured in London, England, and extremely popular at the time.

This cape was bought in about 1994 at a Melbourne deceased estate auction by collector Tony Palmer. The two elegant and artistic sisters who owned it had travelled to Europe in the late nineteenth century and again in the 1920s. It was on the second trip that they must have bought the opera cape.

Opera cape, womans, silk / metallic thread / fur, made by Liberty and Company, London, England, 1920-1925

Full length opera cape of possibly hand painted silk in pinks, blues and greens with metallic brocade of weft threads creating a surface design of flowers and leaves. Design rises from just above the hem, dwindling as it rises toward the neck. Shaped across the shoulders, the cape gathers at the neck with a centre front opening fastening at neck with long tabs with teardrop shaped weighted ends. The dark brown fur collar is secured when folded over with press studs at each underside corner. Cape is fully lined in a gold coloured metallic silk with a patch pocket at wearers inside right front.

Made: Liberty and Co; London, England; 1920 - 1925

Manufacturer's fabric label at inside back neck, woven, royal coat of arms 'LIBERTY / LONDON'

2007/42/1

1920 - 1925