The House of Callot Soeurs was established in Paris in 1895 by the three daughters of an antique dealer and lacemaker; Marie Callot Gerber, Marthe Callot Bertrand and Regina Callot Chantrelle. Madame Gerber was the chief designer and the visionary of the group and under her direction the house became famous for their use of antique laces and lavish beading. This particular day dress is a fine example of the use of antique fabric. It is made up of panels of embroidered lace dating from the 19th century and contemporary silk chiffon.

The lace used in this dress is distinctive of Limerick lace, a needlepoint, embroidered lace from Ireland or England, which was probably made between the 1830s and WW1. This type of lace was all hand made and very time consuming to make and would have been expensive to buy. The lace used in this dress has been carefully hand sewn to the chiffon to preserve the scalloping. The actual technique of lace making would have involved a stretched net on a frame with the paper pattern underneath. Several makers, mainly women, would have worked on the lace panel at the same time.

The house was best know for their day dresses, Oriental style gowns and beaded chemises. For evening wear the sisters designed heavy satin gowns which would sometimes include panniered skirts, delicate floral patterns and pointed bodices decorated with lace. These exotic and extravagant designs were popular with actresses and high society hostesses. In 1928 Madame Gerber's son took over the business and in 1937 the House of Callot Soeurs merged with the House of Calvet, and ultimately closed in 1948.

Documentation prepared by Mandy Crook, Assistant Curator.

The House of Callot Soeurs was established in Paris in 1895 by the three daughters of an antique dealer and lace maker; Marie Callot Gerber, Marthe Callot Bertrand and Regina Callot Chantrelle. Madame Gerber was the chief designer and the visionary of the group and under her direction the house became famous for their use of antique laces and lavish beading. The house was best know for their day dresses, Oriental style gowns and beaded chemises. In 1928 Madame Gerber's son took over the business and in 1937 the House of Callot Soeurs merged with the House of Calvet, and ultimately closed in 1948.

Dress, womens, Limerick lace / silk thread / chiffon, made by Callot Soeurs, France, c. 1925

Loose fitting, calf length dress with three quarter length sleeves and a V-neck. The dress is made up of horizontal panels of cream cotton Limerick lace and silk chiffon.

The lace panels have no tambour with solid infill created, needle run net or net darns, outline thread, heavy lines outline the design.

Made: Callot Soeurs; Paris, France; 1920 - 1930

2005/177/1

1920 - 1930

1000 mm