comes from an important collection of footwear and shoemaking objects thought to have been initiated by the London shoemaker, Robert Dixon Box, and consolidated by his son, Joseph Box and the Box Kingham family during the second half of the 1800s. The collection ranges from remnants of leather shoes from the Middle Ages found in English archaeological sites, to intact European shoes from the 1600s onwards, 'foreign' shoes collected as 'curiosities' from around the world, shoe buckles, spurs and snuff boxes, as well as company documents relating to Joseph Box Ltd.

The Joseph Box shoe company was an important London shoemaking business established in 1808 by a 'ladies shoemaker' called James Sly. From 1816 Sly's apprentice was Robert Dixon Box, the fifteen-year-old son of a bankrupted Quaker attorney. Box became manager of the business when Sly died in 1826, subsequently attaining a reputation for fine shoemaking through participation at international exhibitions and by obtaining Royal Warrants. The business became known as Joseph Box Ltd in 1862 after it was transferred to Robert's son, Joseph. Like his father, Joseph started in the trade at the age of 15, but retired at the relatively early age of 42 to enable his daughters to enter society. Although he transferred the business to his cousins the Box Kinghams in 1882, Joseph maintained an active interest in shoemaking through collecting. Some of the shoes in the collection feature a remarkable 20 stitches to the centimetre exemplifying the attention to detail and quality of workmanship Joseph Box shoes became renowned for. At the end of the century the business was later taken over by royal shoemakers Gundry & Sons, which was itself taken over by John Lobb Ltd some time after 1953.

The Joseph Box collection provides a unique insight into footwear history, demonstrating how changes in contemporary attitudes, needs and etiquette directly affected shoe design. It also reveals the fine skills of shoemakers as well as the impact of scientific developments and technological innovations on the materials and construction methods.

Reference:
Mitchell, Louise, with Lindie Ward, 'Stepping out: three centuries of shoes', Powerhouse Publishing, Sydney, 1997

This pair of large highly ornamental brass spurs was made in South America in around 1870.

These spurs feature characteristics typical of an old-fashioned Mexican spur. The distinctive large circular heel plate and unusually shaped perforations on the neck to minimise the weight of the spur, are attributed to Moorish influence on Spanish design. Originally introduced into South America by Cortes and his conquistadors in the 16th century, the evolution of the American cowboy and his equipment can also be traced back to the Spanish conquest of Mexico. Curiously, this type of spur didn't survive long in Spain but was still favoured particularly by Mexican 'hacendados' (owner or manager of a hacienda), into the early 20th century.

The spurs were seldom worn when a rider dismounted as the extremely large rowel made it difficult to walk. A servant usually put the spurs on the heels after the rider mounted his horse and removed them before or immediately after dismounting.

Reference:
Lacy, Charles de Lacy, 'The history of the spur', The Connoisseur, London, c1904
Ward, Fay E, 'The cowboy at work: All about his job and how he does it', Hastings House, Oklahoma, 1958
www.encarta.msn.com/dictionary_/hacendados.html

This type of highly ornamental spurs made in South America in around 1870 is highly collectable. An image of a similar spur features in 'The history of the spur' by Charles de Lacy Lacy, plate 35. The spurs are part of the Museum's significant Joseph Box collection. Joseph Box Ltd had its origins in a London shoemaking business established in 1808 by a 'ladies shoemaker' called James Sly. From 1816 Sly's apprentice was Robert Dixon Box, the fifteen-year-old son of a bankrupted Quaker attorney. Box was to become manager of the business when Sly died in 1826, and gained a reputation for fine shoemaking through its participation at international exhibitions and by obtaining Royal Warrants. The business became known as Joseph Box Ltd in 1862 after it was transferred to Robert's son, Joseph. Like his father, Joseph started in the trade at the age of 15, but retired at the relatively early age of 42 to enable his daughters to enter society. Although he transferred the business to his cousins the Box Kinghams in 1882, Joseph maintained an active interest in shoemaking through collecting. At the end of the century the business was later taken over by royal shoemakers Gundry & Sons, which was itself taken over by John Lobb Ltd some time after 1953.

The collection acquired by the Museum in 1942 was probably started by Robert Dixon and consolidated by Joseph Box and the Box Kinghams during the second half of the 1800s. It includes remnants of leather shoes from the Middle Ages found in English archaeological sites, intact European shoes from the 1600s onwards, 'foreign' shoes collected as 'curiosities' from around the world, shoe buckles and spurs, as well as documents relating to Joseph Box Ltd.

Footwear scholar, June Swann, former Keeper of the Boot and Shoe Collection at the Northampton Museum in England was invited to catalogue this very significant collection in 1993. A large selection was subsequently featured in the Museum's 1997 exhibition and accompanying publication 'Stepping out: three centuries of shoes'.

REF:
Lacy, Charles de Lacy, 'The history of the spur', The Connoisseur, London, c1904
Mitchell, Louise, with Lindie Ward, 'Stepping out: three centuries of shoes', Powerhouse Publishing, Sydney, 1997

Spurs, pair, brass, maker unknown, South America, c.1870

A pair of large brass spurs featuring a highly ornamental heel band and round heel plate featuring decorative perforations and an ornamental neck with large16 point rowel (rotating sharp-toothed wheel).

Made: 1865 - 1875

No marks

H5737-42

1865 - 1875