This pair of box spurs for military dress comes from an important collection of footwear and shoemaking objects thought to have been initiated by the London shoemaker, Robert Dixon Box, and consolidated by his son, Joseph Box and the Box Kingham family during the second half of the 1800s. The collection ranges from remnants of leather shoes from the Middle Ages found in English archaeological sites, to intact European shoes from the 1600s onwards, 'foreign' shoes collected as 'curiosities' from around the world, shoe buckles, spurs and snuff boxes, as well as company documents relating to Joseph Box Ltd.

The Joseph Box shoe company was an important London shoemaking business established in 1808 by a 'ladies shoemaker' called James Sly. From 1816 Sly's apprentice was Robert Dixon Box, the fifteen-year-old son of a bankrupted Quaker attorney. Box became manager of the business when Sly died in 1826, subsequently attaining a reputation for fine shoemaking through participation at international exhibitions and by obtaining Royal Warrants. The business became known as Joseph Box Ltd in 1862 after it was transferred to Robert's son, Joseph. Like his father, Joseph started in the trade at the age of 15, but retired at the relatively early age of 42 to enable his daughters to enter society. Although he transferred the business to his cousins the Box Kinghams in 1882, Joseph maintained an active interest in shoemaking through collecting. Some of the shoes in the collection feature a remarkable 20 stitches to the centimetre exemplifying the attention to detail and quality of workmanship Joseph Box shoes became renowned for. At the end of the century the business was later taken over by royal shoemakers Gundry & Sons, which was itself taken over by John Lobb Ltd some time after 1953.

The Joseph Box collection provides a unique insight into footwear history, demonstrating how changes in contemporary attitudes, needs and etiquette directly affected shoe design. It also reveals the fine skills of shoemakers as well as the impact of scientific developments and technological innovations on the materials and construction methods.

Reference:
Mitchell, Louise, with Lindie Ward, 'Stepping out: three centuries of shoes', Powerhouse Publishing, Sydney, 1997

This pair of box spurs with foliate rowel was made by Henry Maxwell for military dress in England in around 1845-1855. Rowels with out spikes, known as foliate rowels, were commonly worn on occasions requiring full military dress uniform to avoid catching the spurs on a lady's long dress.

Charles de Lacy Lacy in 'The History of the Spur' notes that the box spur was invented by Henry Maxwell some time after the period of Waterloo. Extending from the centre of the heel bend, the box spur consists of a small steel trapdoor controlled by a spring which fastens onto a small brass box embedded in the heel of the boot, eliminating the need for buckles and straps and enabling the spur to be attached and withdrawn with ease.

Originally a spur maker, Henry Maxwell Limited founded in 1750, is one of the oldest bootmakers still operating in London. The first of many warrants was granted to the firm in the mid 1800s by King George 1V and as bootmakers to the Royal family, Maxwell's are renowned for the traditional craftsmenship of their work. The company is now a sister company of bespoke shoemakers W S Foster & Son.



Reference:
Lacy, Charles de Lacy, 'The history of the spur', The Connoisseur, London, c1904
http://www.henrymaxwell.com/history.php

This pair of box spurs for military dress is part of the Museum's significant Joseph Box collection. Joseph Box Ltd had its origins in a London shoemaking business established in 1808 by a 'ladies shoemaker' called James Sly. From 1816 Sly's apprentice was Robert Dixon Box, the fifteen-year-old son of a bankrupted Quaker attorney. Box was to become manager of the business when Sly died in 1826, and gained a reputation for fine shoemaking through its participation at international exhibitions and by obtaining Royal Warrants. The business became known as Joseph Box Ltd in 1862 after it was transferred to Robert's son, Joseph. Like his father, Joseph started in the trade at the age of 15, but retired at the relatively early age of 42 to enable his daughters to enter society. Although he transferred the business to his cousins the Box Kinghams in 1882, Joseph maintained an active interest in shoemaking through collecting. At the end of the century the business was later taken over by royal shoemakers Gundry & Sons, which was itself taken over by John Lobb Ltd some time after 1953.

The collection acquired by the Museum in 1942 was probably started by Robert Dixon and consolidated by Joseph Box and the Box Kinghams during the second half of the 1800s. It includes remnants of leather shoes from the Middle Ages found in English archaeological sites, intact European shoes from the 1600s onwards, 'foreign' shoes collected as 'curiosities' from around the world, shoe buckles and spurs, as well as documents relating to Joseph Box Ltd.

Footwear scholar, June Swann, former Keeper of the Boot and Shoe Collection at the Northampton Museum in England was invited to catalogue this very significant collection in 1993. A large selection was subsequently featured in the Museum's 1997 exhibition and accompanying publication 'Stepping out: three centuries of shoes'.

REF:
Mitchell, Louise, with Lindie Ward, 'Stepping out: three centuries of shoes', Powerhouse Publishing, Sydney, 1997

Military dress box spurs, pair, metal, made by Henry Maxwell, London, England, c. 1850

A pair of brass military dress box spurs featuring wide heel band, steel box spur and straight neck with foliate rowel (rotating wheel with no spikes) decorated in a star burst pattern with a scalloped edge. Each spur engraved on heel box spur with 'RIGHT' or 'LEFT'. Underneath fitting, 'INVENTOR' and on left box spur, 'MAXWELL'.

Made: 1845 - 1855

Right spur engraved on heel box spur: 'RIGHT' and underneath fitting, 'INVENTOR'

Left spur engraved on heel box spur: 'LEFT' and underneath fitting, 'INVENTOR' and 'MAXWELL'

H5737-37

1845 - 1855