This barette boot reputedly made for the Princess of Wales, later known as Queen Alexandra, comes from an important collection of footwear and shoemaking objects thought to have been initiated by the London shoemaker, Robert Dixon Box, and consolidated by his son, Joseph Box and the Box Kingham family during the second half of the 1800s. The collection ranges from remnants of leather shoes from the Middle Ages found in English archaeological sites, to intact European shoes from the 1600s onwards, 'foreign' shoes collected as 'curiosities' from around the world, shoe buckles, spurs and snuff boxes, as well as company documents relating to Joseph Box Ltd.

The Joseph Box shoe company was an important London shoemaking business established in 1808 by a 'ladies shoemaker' called James Sly. From 1816 Sly's apprentice was Robert Dixon Box, the fifteen-year-old son of a bankrupted Quaker attorney. Box became manager of the business when Sly died in 1826, subsequently attaining a reputation for fine shoemaking through participation at international exhibitions and by obtaining Royal Warrants. The business became known as Joseph Box Ltd in 1862 after it was transferred to Robert's son, Joseph. Like his father, Joseph started in the trade at the age of 15, but retired at the relatively early age of 42 to enable his daughters to enter society. Although he transferred the business to his cousins the Box Kinghams in 1882, Joseph maintained an active interest in shoemaking through collecting. Some of the shoes in the collection feature a remarkable 20 stitches to the centimetre exemplifying the attention to detail and quality of workmanship Joseph Box shoes became renowned for. At the end of the century the business was later taken over by royal shoemakers Gundry & Sons, which was itself taken over by John Lobb Ltd some time after 1953.

The Joseph Box collection provides a unique insight into footwear history, demonstrating how changes in contemporary attitudes, needs and etiquette directly affected shoe design. It also reveals the fine skills of shoemakers as well as the impact of scientific developments and technological innovations on the materials and construction methods.

Reference:
Mitchell, Louise, with Lindie Ward, 'Stepping out: three centuries of shoes', Powerhouse Publishing, Sydney, 1997

This right of a pair barette boot, rmade by Gundry & Sons, is reputed to have been made for Queen Alexandra when she was Princess of Wales. The 1965 Box list attibutes the date of the boot about 1865, however footwear specialist, June Swann dates the boot in around 1880. The barette boot derives its name from the distinctive button and strap mode of fastening with the style described as 'a compromise between a boot and a shoe'.

REF:
Swann J, The costume accessory series: Shoes, B.T.Batsford Ltd, London,1982, p. 49

This right of pair silk satin barette boot is part of the Museum's significant Joseph Box collection. The 1965 Box collection list notes the boots were 'Made for Princess of Wales, afterwards Queen Alexandra.' Date: 'c1865'. Footwear specialist June Swann dates the shoe in around 1875-1885.

Joseph Box Ltd had its origins in a London shoemaking business established in 1808 by a 'ladies shoemaker' called James Sly. From 1816 Sly's apprentice was Robert Dixon Box, the fifteen-year-old son of a bankrupted Quaker attorney. Box was to become manager of the business when Sly died in 1826, and gained a reputation for fine shoemaking through its participation at international exhibitions and by obtaining Royal Warrants. The business became known as Joseph Box Ltd in 1862 after it was transferred to Robert's son, Joseph. Like his father, Joseph started in the trade at the age of 15, but retired at the relatively early age of 42 to enable his daughters to enter society. Although he transferred the business to his cousins the Box Kinghams in 1882, Joseph maintained an active interest in shoemaking through collecting. At the end of the century the business was later taken over by royal shoemakers Gundry & Sons, which was itself taken over by John Lobb Ltd some time after 1953.

The collection acquired by the Museum in 1942 was probably started by Robert Dixon and consolidated by Joseph Box and the Box Kinghams during the second half of the 1800s. It includes remnants of leather shoes from the Middle Ages found in English archaeological sites, intact European shoes from the 1600s onwards, 'foreign' shoes collected as 'curiosities' from around the world, shoe buckles and spurs, as well as documents relating to Joseph Box Ltd.

Footwear scholar, June Swann, former Keeper of the Boot and Shoe Collection at the Northampton Museum in England was invited to catalogue this very significant collection in 1993. A large selection was subsequently featured in the Museum's 1997 exhibition and accompanying publication 'Stepping out: three centuries of shoes'.

REF:
Mitchell, Louise, with Lindie Ward, 'Stepping out: three centuries of shoes', Powerhouse Publishing, Sydney, 1997

Barette boot, right of pair, womens, silk satin / leather / grosgrain, made by Gundry & Sons / [made for the Princess of Wales], London, England, c. 1880

Womens nine button right of pair barette above ankle boot of turnshoe construction with round toe and covered knock on heel. Boot consists of ivory silk satin upper featuring a seam centre front and back, short vamp, 9 pair of ruched bars to button centre front with ball shaped buttons and machined buttonholing. Slightly curved top dips at all sides and edges are bound except for the seams. Upper decorated with a double bow stitched at the throat and lined with fawn grosgrain. Heel covered with the same silk satin and nailed on the round edge. Leather sole originally featured a cream finish.

(See object file for specialist report by June Swann).

Made: 1875 - 1885

Maker on insole, printed paper label in the shape of an animal hide, brown text beneath coat of arms, within brown border, 'GUNDRY & SONS / MAKERS / TO THE QUEEN, / THE PRINCESS OF WALES / AND ROYAL FAMILY, / 1 SOHO SQUARE, / LONDON'

On lining LH quarter of right boot, printed in script, 'Gundry / 1 Soho Square / W'

Number on outsole, scratched into leather, '741 7/ 7 (illeg.)'

H4448-88/2

1875 - 1885