This silk brocade mule made as prize work to demonstrate the skill of the shoemaker, featured in the Shoe and Leather Fair, Islington, 1895 and the Bethnal Green Museum Shoe Exhibition held in London, England in 1897. The shoe comes from an important collection of footwear and shoemaking objects thought to have been initiated by the London shoemaker, Robert Dixon Box, and consolidated by his son, Joseph Box and the Box Kingham family during the second half of the 1800s. The collection ranges from remnants of leather shoes from the Middle Ages found in English archaeological sites, to intact European shoes from the 1600s onwards, 'foreign' shoes collected as 'curiosities' from around the world, shoe buckles, spurs and snuff boxes, as well as company documents relating to Joseph Box Ltd.

The Joseph Box shoe company was an important London shoemaking business established in 1808 by a 'ladies shoemaker' called James Sly. From 1816 Sly's apprentice was Robert Dixon Box, the fifteen-year-old son of a bankrupted Quaker attorney. Box became manager of the business when Sly died in 1826, subsequently attaining a reputation for fine shoemaking through participation at international exhibitions and by obtaining Royal Warrants. The business became known as Joseph Box Ltd in 1862 after it was transferred to Robert's son, Joseph. Like his father, Joseph started in the trade at the age of 15, but retired at the relatively early age of 42 to enable his daughters to enter society. Although he transferred the business to his cousins the Box Kinghams in 1882, Joseph maintained an active interest in shoemaking through collecting. Some of the shoes in the collection feature a remarkable 20 stitches to the centimetre exemplifying the attention to detail and quality of workmanship Joseph Box shoes became renowned for. At the end of the century the business was later taken over by royal shoemakers Gundry & Sons, which was itself taken over by John Lobb Ltd some time after 1953.

The Joseph Box collection provides a unique insight into footwear history, demonstrating how changes in contemporary attitudes, needs and etiquette directly affected shoe design. It also reveals the fine skills of shoemakers as well as the impact of scientific developments and technological innovations on the materials and construction methods.

Reference:
Mitchell, Louise, with Lindie Ward, 'Stepping out: three centuries of shoes', Powerhouse Publishing, Sydney, 1997

This silk brocade mule was made in around 1846-1856 as prize work to showcase the skill of the shoemaker. The 1965 Box collection list ascribes the shoe as 'French' made. However, footwear specialist June Swann notes there is no indication in the production of the shoe to suggest French work. The shoe featured as number 36 in the Shoe and Leather Fair, Islington, 1895 and in the Bethnal Green Museum Shoe Exhibition, London England in 1897 as exhibit number 158 described as: 'Shoe; upper of silk brocade with a fringe of twisted gold thread; no quarter; wooden heel 5 in. high; covered with dark blue satin, French, 18th century? Box collection'.

This silk brocade mule made in around 1846-1856 as prize work, featured as number 36 in the Shoe and Leather Fair, Islington, 1895 and in the Bethnal Green Museum Shoe Exhibition, London, England in 1897 as exhibit number 158 described as: 'Shoe; upper of silk brocade with a fringe of twisted gold thread; no quarter; wooden heel 5 in. high; covered with dark blue satin, French, 18th century? Box collection'.

The shoe is part of the Museum's significant Joseph Box collection. Joseph Box Ltd had its origins in a London shoemaking business established in 1808 by a 'ladies shoemaker' called James Sly. From 1816 Sly's apprentice was Robert Dixon Box, the fifteen-year-old son of a bankrupted Quaker attorney. Box was to become manager of the business when Sly died in 1826, and gained a reputation for fine shoemaking through its participation at international exhibitions and by obtaining Royal Warrants. The business became known as Joseph Box Ltd in 1862 after it was transferred to Robert's son, Joseph. Like his father, Joseph started in the trade at the age of 15, but retired at the relatively early age of 42 to enable his daughters to enter society. Although he transferred the business to his cousins the Box Kinghams in 1882, Joseph maintained an active interest in shoemaking through collecting. At the end of the century the business was later taken over by royal shoemakers Gundry & Sons, which was itself taken over by John Lobb Ltd some time after 1953.

The Joseph Box collection includes remnants of leather shoes from the Middle Ages found in English archaeological sites, intact European shoes from the 1600s onwards, 'foreign' shoes collected as 'curiosities' from around the world, shoe buckles and spurs, as well as documents relating to Joseph Box Ltd.

The Joseph Box collection of boots, shoes, buckles and other miscellaneous items was purchased by the Museum of Applied Arts and Sciences from Joseph Box Ltd in 1942. This shoe was part of Shoe Exhibition at Bethnal Green Museum, London, England in 1897, 158. (See object file for specialist report by June Swann)

Footwear scholar, June Swann, former Keeper of the Boot and Shoe Collection at the Northampton Museum in England was invited to catalogue this very significant collection in 1993. A large selection was subsequently featured in the Museum's 1997 exhibition and accompanying publication 'Stepping out: three centuries of shoes'.

REF:
Mitchell, Louise, with Lindie Ward, 'Stepping out: three centuries of shoes', Powerhouse Publishing, Sydney, 1997

Shoe, mule, womens, silk brocade / leather / silk, maker unknown, prize work, (France) / England, 1846-1856.

Womens single straight mule of turned construction with needlepoint toe and covered thin Louis heel. Mule consists of a red and black silk brocade upper featuring a straight top line from mid seat and gold fringe around the top edge. Upper lined in red Morocco and the sock is in purple silk brocade. Heel is covered in royal blue silk with white stitching and polished top piece and leather sole features a white edge and breast, the remainder is tan.

Made: Bethnal Green Museum; London, England; 1851

Joseph Box collection label pasted on outsole, printed black text on paper label, 'From JOSEPH BOX / BOOT MAKER BY SPECIAL APPOINTMENTS TO / HRH THE PRINCESS OF WALES / HIH THE CROWN PRINCESS OF GERMANY AND / HRH THE PRINCESS LOUIS OF HESSE / 187 REGENT STREET LONDON Established 1808'

A paper label stuck in the top left corner of the has black printed text '158', perpendicular to main text, hand written in ink, '36'

H4448-532

1851

123 mm

58 mm

205 mm