This miniature mule made in 1851 as prize work to demonstrate the skill of the shoemaker, featured in the Shoe and Leather Fair, Islington, 1895 and the Bethnal Green Museum Shoe Exhibition held in London, England in 1897. The shoe comes from an important collection of footwear and shoemaking objects thought to have been initiated by the London shoemaker, Robert Dixon Box, and consolidated by his son, Joseph Box and the Box Kingham family during the second half of the 1800s. The collection ranges from remnants of leather shoes from the Middle Ages found in English archaeological sites, to intact European shoes from the 1600s onwards, 'foreign' shoes collected as 'curiosities' from around the world, shoe buckles, spurs and snuff boxes, as well as company documents relating to Joseph Box Ltd.

The Joseph Box shoe company was an important London shoemaking business established in 1808 by a 'ladies shoemaker' called James Sly. From 1816 Sly's apprentice was Robert Dixon Box, the fifteen-year-old son of a bankrupted Quaker attorney. Box became manager of the business when Sly died in 1826, subsequently attaining a reputation for fine shoemaking through participation at international exhibitions and by obtaining Royal Warrants. The business became known as Joseph Box Ltd in 1862 after it was transferred to Robert's son, Joseph. Like his father, Joseph started in the trade at the age of 15, but retired at the relatively early age of 42 to enable his daughters to enter society. Although he transferred the business to his cousins the Box Kinghams in 1882, Joseph maintained an active interest in shoemaking through collecting. Some of the shoes in the collection feature a remarkable 20 stitches to the centimetre exemplifying the attention to detail and quality of workmanship Joseph Box shoes became renowned for. At the end of the century the business was later taken over by royal shoemakers Gundry & Sons, which was itself taken over by John Lobb Ltd some time after 1953.

The Joseph Box collection provides a unique insight into footwear history, demonstrating how changes in contemporary attitudes, needs and etiquette directly affected shoe design. It also reveals the fine skills of shoemakers as well as the impact of scientific developments and technological innovations on the materials and construction methods.

Reference:
Mitchell, Louise, with Lindie Ward, 'Stepping out: three centuries of shoes', Powerhouse Publishing, Sydney, 1997

This miniature mule was made in England, 1851, as prize work to demonstrate the skill of the shoemaker and also featured in the Bethnal Green Museum Shoe Exhibition, London, England in 1897 as exhibit 112 described as: 'Shoe; upper of silk brocade with a fringe of twisted gold thread; no quarter; wooden heel; covered with dark blue satin.... Box collection'; and number 37 in the Shoe and Leather Fair, Islington, 1895.

This miniature mule made in 1851 as prize work to demonstrate the skill of the shoemaker, is part of the Museum's significant Joseph Box collection. It also featured in the Bethnal Green Museum Shoe Exhibition, London, England in 1897 as exhibit 112 described as: 'Shoe; upper of silk brocade with a fringe of twisted gold thread; no quarter; wooden heel; covered with dark blue satin.... Box collection'; and number 37 in the Shoe and Leather Fair, Islington, 1895.

Joseph Box Ltd had its origins in a London shoemaking business established in 1808 by a 'ladies shoemaker' called James Sly. From 1816 Sly's apprentice was Robert Dixon Box, the fifteen-year-old son of a bankrupted Quaker attorney. Box was to become manager of the business when Sly died in 1826, and gained a reputation for fine shoemaking through its participation at international exhibitions and by obtaining Royal Warrants. The business became known as Joseph Box Ltd in 1862 after it was transferred to Robert's son, Joseph. Like his father, Joseph started in the trade at the age of 15, but retired at the relatively early age of 42 to enable his daughters to enter society. Although he transferred the business to his cousins the Box Kinghams in 1882, Joseph maintained an active interest in shoemaking through collecting. At the end of the century the business was later taken over by royal shoemakers Gundry & Sons, which was itself taken over by John Lobb Ltd some time after 1953.

The collection acquired by the Museum in 1942 was probably started by Robert Dixon and consolidated by Joseph Box and the Box Kinghams during the second half of the 1800s. It includes remnants of leather shoes from the Middle Ages found in English archaeological sites, intact European shoes from the 1600s onwards, 'foreign' shoes collected as 'curiosities' from around the world, shoe buckles and spurs, as well as documents relating to Joseph Box Ltd.

Footwear scholar, June Swann, former Keeper of the Boot and Shoe Collection at the Northampton Museum in England was invited to catalogue this very significant collection in 1993. A large selection was subsequently featured in the Museum's 1997 exhibition and accompanying publication 'Stepping out: three centuries of shoes'.

REF:
Mitchell, Louise, with Lindie Ward, 'Stepping out: three centuries of shoes', Powerhouse Publishing, Sydney, 1997

Mule, miniature, womens, silk brocade / leather, maker unknown, prize work, England, 1851

Womens single straight miniature mule of turnshoe construction with needlepoint toe and covered thin Louis heel. Mule consists of a pink and gold silk brocade upper featuring an almost straight top beginning at mid seat with white piping around the seat edge and metallic gold fringe around the top edge. Upper lined in white kid and the sock is in maroon gold and silver floral brocade. Heel covered in royal blue silk is white stitched. Leather sole features a brown polished forepart and white waist.

Made: Bethnal Green Museum; London, England; 1851

Joseph Box collection label pasted on outsole, printed black text on paper label, 'From JOSEPH BOX, / BOOT MAKER BY SPECIAL APPOINTMENTS TO / H.R.H. THE PRINCESS OF WALES, / H.I.H. THE CROWN PRINCESS OF GERMANY AND / H.R.H. THE PRINCESS LOUIS OF HESSE, / 187, REGENT STREET, LONDON. Established 1808'

Numbers written in corner of label, LH top, printed text in black on pasted paper label, '112', perpendicular to main text, RHS in ink, '37'

Label has been cut in half before pasting

H4448-531

1851

70 mm