This boys mule made as prize work to demonstrate the skill of the shoemaker, featured in the Islington Shoe and Leather Fair in 1895 and the Bethnal Green Museum Shoe Exhibition held in London, England in 1897. The shoe comes from an important collection of footwear and shoemaking objects thought to have been initiated by the London shoemaker, Robert Dixon Box, and consolidated by his son, Joseph Box and the Box Kingham family during the second half of the 1800s. The collection ranges from remnants of leather shoes from the Middle Ages found in English archaeological sites, to intact European shoes from the 1600s onwards, 'foreign' shoes collected as 'curiosities' from around the world, shoe buckles, spurs and snuff boxes, as well as company documents relating to Joseph Box Ltd.

The Joseph Box shoe company was an important London shoemaking business established in 1808 by a 'ladies shoemaker' called James Sly. From 1816 Sly's apprentice was Robert Dixon Box, the fifteen-year-old son of a bankrupted Quaker attorney. Box became manager of the business when Sly died in 1826, subsequently attaining a reputation for fine shoemaking through participation at international exhibitions and by obtaining Royal Warrants. The business became known as Joseph Box Ltd in 1862 after it was transferred to Robert's son, Joseph. Like his father, Joseph started in the trade at the age of 15, but retired at the relatively early age of 42 to enable his daughters to enter society. Although he transferred the business to his cousins the Box Kinghams in 1882, Joseph maintained an active interest in shoemaking through collecting. Some of the shoes in the collection feature a remarkable 20 stitches to the centimetre exemplifying the attention to detail and quality of workmanship Joseph Box shoes became renowned for. At the end of the century the business was later taken over by royal shoemakers Gundry & Sons, which was itself taken over by John Lobb Ltd some time after 1953.

The Joseph Box collection provides a unique insight into footwear history, demonstrating how changes in contemporary attitudes, needs and etiquette directly affected shoe design. It also reveals the fine skills of shoemakers as well as the impact of scientific developments and technological innovations on the materials and construction methods.

Reference:
Mitchell, Louise, with Lindie Ward, 'Stepping out: three centuries of shoes', Powerhouse Publishing, Sydney, 1997

This boy's mule was made as prize work in London, England by Robert Dixon Box in 1851. As an exhibition piece, the shoe was not meant to be worn but pushed the boundaries of fashionable style to demonstrate the skill of the shoemaker. The shoe featured in the Bethnal Green Museum shoe exhibition held in London, England in 1897 as number 123, 'Shoe; upper of maroon leather; with square toe; without a quarter; an edging of yellow silk...... made from a Grecian pattern in 1851. Box collection'.

Reference:
Walford, Jonathon, ' The seductive shoe: four centuries of fashion footwear', Thames and Hudson, London, p. 82

This boys single mule made in 1851 as prize work, featured in the Bethnal Green Museum Shoe Exhibition, in London, England 1897, as exhibit 123 and number 34 in the Islington Shoe and Leather Fair, 1895 and is part of the Museum's significant Joseph Box collection. Joseph Box Ltd had its origins in a London shoemaking business established in 1808 by a 'ladies shoemaker' called James Sly. From 1816 Sly's apprentice was Robert Dixon Box, the fifteen-year-old son of a bankrupted Quaker attorney. Box was to become manager of the business when Sly died in 1826, and gained a reputation for fine shoemaking through its participation at international exhibitions and by obtaining Royal Warrants. The business became known as Joseph Box Ltd in 1862 after it was transferred to Robert's son, Joseph. Like his father, Joseph started in the trade at the age of 15, but retired at the relatively early age of 42 to enable his daughters to enter society. Although he transferred the business to his cousins the Box Kinghams in 1882, Joseph maintained an active interest in shoemaking through collecting. At the end of the century the business was later taken over by royal shoemakers Gundry & Sons, which was itself taken over by John Lobb Ltd some time after 1953.

The collection acquired by the Museum in 1942 was probably started by Robert Dixon and consolidated by Joseph Box and the Box Kinghams during the second half of the 1800s. It includes remnants of leather shoes from the Middle Ages found in English archaeological sites, intact European shoes from the 1600s onwards, 'foreign' shoes collected as 'curiosities' from around the world, shoe buckles and spurs, as well as documents relating to Joseph Box Ltd.

Footwear scholar, June Swann, former Keeper of the Boot and Shoe Collection at the Northampton Museum in England was invited to catalogue this very significant collection in 1993. A large selection was subsequently featured in the Museum's 1997 exhibition and accompanying publication 'Stepping out: three centuries of shoes'.

REF:
Mitchell, Louise, with Lindie Ward, 'Stepping out: three centuries of shoes', Powerhouse Publishing, Sydney, 1997

Mule, boys, leather / silk, made by Robert Dixon Box, prize work, London, England, 1851

Boys single straight mule of turnshoe construction with square toe and covered spring heel. Mule consists of a red Morocco upper with exaggerated curve at instep, straight top edge with no top edge binding and yellow silk twist cord at throat. Lining is in black moire and the sock is floral brocade. Heel covered in royal blue silk and features a white kid seat rand with black edge finish at sole. Leather sole features a black forepart edge finish and brown waist edge.

Made: Box, Robert Dixon; London, England; 1851

Made: Bethnal Green Museum; London, England; 1851

Joseph Box collection label pasted on outsole of both shoes, printed black text on paper label, 'From JOSEPH BOX, / BOOT MAKER BY SPECIAL APPOINTMENTS TO / H.R.H. THE PRINCESS OF WALES, / H.I.H. THE CROWN PRINCESS OF GERMANY AND / H.R.H. THE PRINCESS LOUIS OF HESSE, / 187, REGENT STREET, LONDON. Established 1808'

Numbers written in corner of label, LH top, printed text in black on pasted paper label, '123', perpendicular to main text, LHS in ink, '34'

H4448-521

1851

15 mm

30 mm