The Museum has a long history of collecting textiles, costume and dress accessories such as bags, purses and reticules. Whether serving as a means of carrying valuables, or to complement an outfit aesthetically, purses and their history provide a fascinating insight into needs and fashions across various socio-cultural traditions.
This purse has been made using slit tapestry weave. The word 'tapestry' refers to a particular weave structure as well as to the finished tapestry-woven product. Tapestry involves working fine, coloured weft (widthways) threads, backwards and forwards across defined pattern areas. Where different colours meet, the wefts must be dovetailed or interlocked or a slit will appear. In some designs slits are integral to the pattern.

Designs using curves and stepped diagonals suit slit tapestry weave. The mixed geometric and floral design of this purse, incorporating subtle use of colours, was specially designed to fit the finished shape, and shows Islamic influences. The embellishment of crochet, sequins and tassels are integral to the overall design and add considerably to its interest.
This purse is a superb example of the precision which may be achieved with fine tapestry weave in silk. This purse complements the Museum's collection of tapestry woven pieces from pre-Columbian Peru, the Middle East and China, as well as contemporary silk tapestry pieces from Australia.

REF:
Sumner, Christina, et al, 'A Material World: fibre, colour & pattern', Powerhouse Publishing, 1990

Made in Aleppo, Syria, c. 1800

Tapestry weave has a very long history. Thousands of years ago, the technique was developed independently by people in a number of places including Egypt, China and South America. Tapestry weaving may have been brought to Europe by the Moors, who crossed from Africa into Spain in 710AD, bringing Islamic weaving traditions with them.

Purse, silk taffeta / tapestry, maker unknown, Aleppo, Syria, 1795-1805

A draw string purse, small, constructed from two flat, shield shaped, tapestry pieces, and sewn together with cotton thread, creating a pointed base. The purse is left open at the top and gathered with a drawstring of gold coloured metallic thread. The bag features a mixed geometric and floral design in red, maroon, salmon pinks, olive green, blue and black on a neutral ground. There is a decorative border of crotched, gold coloured metallic thread, trimmed with sequins around the entire perimeter, a large tassel of the same material is attached to the border at the centre of the base, matching tassels are attached to either end of the drawstring. The purse is lined with peach taffeta.

Made: Aleppo, Syria; 1795 - 1805

No marks

85/1075

1795 - 1805

205 mm

135 mm

30 mm