Towards the end of the 19th century, Indian embroiderers turned towards exotic forms of decoration to satisfy the European demand for novelty. In Madras and Hyderabad, embroiderers began to use irridescent green beetle wings as spangles on a variety of textiles, including table linen, covers and for fashion wear. To secure the fragile beetle wings, they were usually pierced with a fine retaining thread.

Khus-khus grass has a sweet smell when dried, and is popular in India not only for making woven baskets but also curtains and mats to help keep houses cool in summer.

The individual history for this work is not known, however the use of 'beetle wings', the vivid green iridescent casings from the wings of Indian beetles, has a long history in South Asia. Indigenous peoples in many parts of India used them to embellish their dress and domestic textiles, and were an indication of the elevated social status of the wearer. During the 1600s beetle wing decoration was also favoured by the Mughal royals, and often accompanied by rich metallic threads. During the 19th century, beetle wings were popularly used as trimmings for European women's dresses and accessories, and India created such work specifically for the export market. Examples in British museums date from 1780s up until 1930.

Basket, woven khus-khus fibre, ornamented with beetle wings, maker unknown, [India, early 20th century]

Semi-oval basket made of roots of khus-khus grass, ornamented with beetles wings and peacock feather. Trimmed with narrow bands of green and red velvet and crimped metal foil. Handle of wood, covered with green velvet and decorated with crimped metal.

D10325