Kuchi nomads are a group of people who inhabit an area ranging over northern Afghanistan and northern Pakistan who have established widespread cultural and trading contacts. The tunic incorporates block printing and embroidery, but from an ethnological perspective, it is the added embellishment of coins, plastic, pearl and metal buttons and various tokens which is of particular interest. The addition of such decoration would be a gradual process undertaken while the garment was in use and presumably a reflection of the wearer's 'wealth' and trading activities. The whole appearance of the tunic is very much an individual statement. This garment is a reflection not only of the design, construction, use of adornment and quality of handwork from this region but also demonstrates the lifestyle of the Kuchi nomads evidenced by the range, quality and origin of the coins, tokens, buttons, metal rings and beads that adorn it.

Jumlo (dress) from Indus Kohistan in the remote northern region of Pakistan. Protective symbols are embroidered on clothing, particularly around the openings, seams, breasts and shoulders to protect the wearer. Design elements are taken from stars, mountains, trees and circular motifs representing the sun which were often used throughout this Central Asian region. The use of these symbols arises from their animistic beliefs, which they retained until converting to Islam in the late nineteenth century.

Decorated on cotton drill with block printing that complements the construction of the garment, fine silk embroidery, plastic, pearl and metal buttons, coins from India and Pakistan and metal beads.

Womens dress or jumlo, cotton/silk/buttons/coins, embroidered and block printed, Indus Kohistan, Pakistan, c.1940

Elaborately decorated knee length tunic or dress, handmade in black cotton drill. The dress has a round neck and front opening, very long wide square-set sleeves, and a very full skirt whose fullness comes from dozens of inset triangular gores. The sleeves have a block printed design in red, yellow, green and blue, and the front opening and sleeve edges are bordered with finely embroidered geometric designs in coloured cross stitch and straight stitch and set off with white beads. The neck edge and the sleeve seams are edged with printed cotton. The front of the top and the sleeves are embellished with a collection of plastic, pearl and metal buttons, coins (mainly Indian and Pakistani), metal tokens of various sizes and design. Strings of metal beads threaded on cords are disposed in a geometric, symmetrical pattern that complements the lines of construction of the dress. The top end of the sleeves are lined with cotton, and some seams are top stitched with red thread.

Made: Kohistan, Pakistan; 1935 - 1945

A7120

1935 - 1945

2110 mm

1020 mm