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Clothing and Dress > Evening dresses

+ 94/129/1 Evening dress, womens, 'Chocola...
+ 95/23/1 Dress, evening, silk / polyester...
+ 95/65/2 Dress and scarf, 'Lily', crepe, ...
+ 96/386/2 Evening dress, bias cut, silk j...
+ 96/386/3 Evening dress, silk, Lucile, Lo...
+ 97/154/4 Theatre costume, womens evening...
+ A7453 Nina Ricci blue halter neck evenin...
+ A7495 Black evening dress with two diamo...
+ A7500 Pink satin evening gown, Phillipe ...
+ A7501 White satin strapless evening gown...
+ A7882 Dress with petticoat, women's, mus...
+ A7988 Evening dress, women's, chiffon, m...
+ A8117 Two dresses cut on the same patter...
+ A8217 Evening dress, womens, figured sil...
+ A8218 Dress, evening, tunic style, black...
+ A8652 Evening dress and bag, silk / bead...
+ A8713 Evening dress, black chiffon, prin...
+ A8718 Evening dress, gold satin, the bod...
+ A8720 Evening dress, ink blue muslin, pr...
+ A8725 Evening dress, silk, Viola, Englan...
+ A8726 Ball gown, silk / mixed materials,...
+ A8737 Evening dress, cream silk overlaid...
+ A8742 Evening dress, womens, silk / glas...
+ A8766 Evening gown and petticoat, cream ...
+ A8767 Evening gown and purse, hot pink b...
+ A8941 Black jersey evening dress, sleeve...
+ A8946 Black organza/velvet evening dress...
+ A8947 Evening dress, hot pink/white prin...
+ A8967 Evening dress, brocade, I. Magnin ...
+ A9081 Evening dress, cream jersey. Bob B...
+ A9107 Evening dress and bolero, silk, Li...
+ 98/35/1 Evening dress, worn by Gladys Mo...
+ A9253 Dress, evening, painted, dyed, emb...
+ A9291 Dress, evening, black beaded georg...
+ A9344 Dress, evening, with petticoat, co...
+ A9354 Dress and headpiece, evening, blac...
+ A9438 Dress, evening, pink silk/net, seq...
+ A9452 Dress, women's, evening, beaded, (...
+ A9453 Dress, evening, women's, (incomple...
+ A9454 Dress, evening, women's, (unfinish...
+ A9455 Evening dress and fabric panel, se...
+ A9661 Dress, strapless evening dress of ...
+ 98/136/1 Evening dress and stole, silk/m...
+ A9897 Evening dress, womens, silk / meta...
+ A10195 Dress, evening, polyester chiffon...
+ A10196 Dress, evening, crepe viscose, bl...
+ A10199 Dress, evening, chiffon, black, t...
+ A10201 Dress, evening, chiffon, apricot,...
+ A10206 Dress, evening, tulle, black, bea...
+ A10207 Evening dress, womens, beaded tul...



'Delphos' dress by Mariano Fortuny
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Object statement
Evening dress, 'Delphos', womens, pleated silk, Mariano Fortuny, Venice, Italy, 1910-1920
Mariano Fortuny (1871-1949) was a Spanish artist and designer who registered many extraordinary inventions. His most successful patent was for the 'Delphos' gown, which he first designed in 1907. The finely pleated silk gown represented the classic, ideal form. It freed women from the constraints of the corset and now epitomises Fortuny's style.

The 'Delphos' gown was worn in the early twentieth century by some of the most avant-garde women in Europe and America. Fortuny was to repeat it, with only subtle variations, over the next forty years. Fortuny also designed exquisite gowns of printed and stencilled velvet with panels of finely pleated silk. He saw himself as an artist and had no aspiration to be part of high fashion with its constant change. He blended his love for medieval history and classical Greece with a fascination for technology and the skills of the craftsman. Working closely with his wife, Henriette, their work combined the ideals of the Aesthetic Movement and Modernism.

Henriette assisted Fortuny in the manufacture of unusual dyes and pigments and also made up the garments. They devised unique printing and stencilling techniques for the exquisite silks and velvets. Only the tiny Venetian glass beads threaded onto silk cord at the neck and armholes were made elsewhere. 'Delphos' gowns were dyed individually in a wide range of unusual colours. Delicate silk was processed on porcelain rollers to create fine, uneven pleats, one of his many innovations. The dresses were finally rolled up into a tightly twisted ball and presented in a small silk bag, perfect for travelling.

The production process took place at the Palazzo Orfei, the palace in Venice where Fortuny spent the most creative period of his life. His family had moved there when he was eighteen to relieve his allergy to horses.

In 1927 an American interior designer, Elsie McNeill, discovered Fortuny's work and asked if she could sell his goods in America. This venture proved highly successful until the second world war made imports impossible.

After Fortuny's death in 1949, Henriette persuaded Elsie to manufacture the Delphos gowns again and a revival occurred. Following an exhibition held in the Los Angeles County Museum in 1967, Fortuny's style re-emerged. His work was featured in fashion magazines and soon became among the most highly valued collectable garments at international auctions, a status they still hold today.
Marked "Fortuny" at binding at inner arm hole

 This text content licensed under CC BY-NC.

Description
Full length evening dress of finely pleated vivid green satin-weave silk. Constructed of four pre-pleated pieces, hand sewn together into a cylindrical shape with short sleeves and a wide, scooped drawstring neckline. Laced at neck, shoulders and sleeves with a cream silk cord which is weighted with brown and white Venetian beads.

Designed: Fortuny, Mariano; Italy

Made: Fortuny, Mariano; Venice, Italy; 1910 - 1920
Marks
Marked "FORTUNY" at binding at inner armhole
A10225
Height
1520 mm

 This text content licensed under CC BY-SA.
Acquisition credit line
Purchased with funds donated by the Patrons of the Powerhouse, 1984
Subjects
+ Textile technology
+ Aesthetic movement
+ Modernism
Short persistent URL
Concise link back to this object: http://from.ph/169168
Cite this object in Wikipedia
Copy and paste this wiki-markup:

{{cite web |url=http://from.ph/169168 |title='Delphos' dress by Mariano Fortuny |author=Powerhouse Museum |accessdate=18 April 2014 |publisher=Powerhouse Museum, Australia}}


Copyright
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Object viewed 21232 times. Parent IRN: 2137. Master IRN: 2137 Img: 164378 Flv: H:2390px W:1940px SMO:0 RIGHTS:.