This three piece day suit was designed by Christian Dior for his Spring-Summer 1950 'Vertical Line' collection. Each of Dior's lines was named after its silhouette. As demonstrated by this suit, the 'Vertical Line' sought to lengthen the female body. The overall shape is narrow; the bodice moulded with a horseshoe collar; the skirt narrow with subtle pleats which do not extend beyond the line of the hips; and a swept back jacket which, when worn, transforms the silhouette of the suit.

Christian Dior rose to prominence as a fashion designer virtually overnight, at the age of 42. His first collection was shown on 12th February 1947 and was dubbed the 'New Look' for its small-waists and full-skirts, which broke away from wartime fashion and its masculine inspired shapes with square shoulders and fabric scrimping. He created silhouettes which embodied femininity, placing emphasis on a rounded bust, tiny waist and padded hips, and brought a new sense of gracefulness and glamour to fashion. For this, Dior has been credited for reviving Paris' couture industry and regenerating fashion as an economic activity for France.

Dior's designs give the impression of simplicity from the outside, but in fact involved a lot of elaborate workmanship and complex underpinning. In this suit, the zipper extends beyond the length of the bodice so it can be concealed when worn; black elastic is suspended below the bodice for attachment to stockings and buttons and fasteners are secured around the bottom of the bodice and inside of the waist to keep the garment firm and close to the skin. There is also padding inside the bust of the bodice for fullness and one asymmetrical pocket on the right hand side of the skirt, which subtly continues the lines formed from the cut of the horseshoe collar.

This particular suit was most probably owned and worn by Elizabeth Parke Firestone (of the Firestone tyre family) and wife of Harvey S Firestone Jr. It is an example of daywear designed for the 'Vertical Line', which was dominated by colours of navy blue and white, possibly influenced by Dior's early years spent in Normandy.

Melanie Pitkin
Assistant Curator, Design and Society

This suit was designed by Christian Dior and made by the House of Dior in Paris, France in 1950.

This suit was most probably owned and worn by Elizabeth Parke Firestone (of the Firestone tyre family) in Detroit, USA. Elizabeth (1897-1990) was married to Harvey S. Firestone Jr, son of the founder of the Firestone Tyre and Rubber Company.

Suit, three piece, women's, wool, probably owned and worn by Elizabeth Parke Firestone, designed by Christian Dior, Paris, France, 1950

Three piece day suit made of midnight blue wool serge. The bodice is of a fitted style with a high V-shaped, draped neckline at the centre front with an ovoid blue plastic button and bound button hole. The bodice is darted across the bust for shaping with a form fitting waist, large applied metal press studs are sewn at centre back and centre front (for fastening to matching skirt studs). An attached dark blue silk peplum tucks inside the skirt and features four thin black elastic loops sewn at the hem (for looping over suspender tabs and keeping the 'line' of the garment). The long straight sleeves feature loose 'pleated' cuffs fastening with smaller ovoid buttons, they are drafted as one with the back bodice and seamed onto the shoulders. The bodice if fully lined with black silk satin.

The skirt features a narrow, straight slim fitting style with below the knee length hem. It is draped at centre front to form a pocket. The narrow waist band features centre back metal zipper fastening with two hooks and eye closures. Large metal press studs are sewn at inside waist and attach to matching studs on the bodice. The skirt is fully lined with black silk satin.

The jacket is double breasted and is made in a short, boxy style with horseshoe shaped collar. Front fastening with four large, dish shaped, blue plastic buttons plus two inner concealed buttons. The long straight dolman sleeves feature fold back cuffs and vertical vented pockets at the side fronts. The jacket is fully lined with blue silk satin.

Designer: Dior, Christian; Paris, France; 1950

Maker: House of Dior; Paris, France; 1950

Jacket: machine embroidered label 'Christian Dior/PARIS' and ink stamp '19438'.

94/37/1

1950