Indigo resist dyeing is one the most typical and enduring traditional Chinese techniques of patterning textile and may be traced back to 519. Cotton is the fabric of working class people and various means of patterning plain cloth were developed including resist dyeing. This set of garments has been made according to a traditional cut and design which has changed little over the centuries. This high collar and length of the jacket are minor variations which indicate that it was made in about the 1920s. The trousers are not tailored and were held in place by a piece of rope of a cloth belt which was tied around the stomach and the waistband then folded over. The garments are cut in such a way that sit flat when folded. Chinese clothes were stored folded in trunks or in cupboards and not hung. Through careful folding the garments would maintain an 'ironed' or pressed look.

Possibly made by a maid servant for her own use.
Collected by Kate McLean in the Shanghai region. She lived in Hong Kong for 2.5 years 1970-1973 and in China for 12.5 years between 1973-1993. Since 1987 she has lived in Shanghai. During this time she has acquired a large collection of Chinese decorative arts objects with a specialist interest in textiles and wooden objects.

Ensemble, womens, resist dyed cotton, Shanghai region, China, 1920-1949.
Two piece outfit of jacket and trousers made from indigo resist dyed hand spun and woven cotton.
Jacket: thigh length traditional side fastening on left with hand fashioned and sewn toggles. The collar is high and has a double band of piping and the long sleeves have a double cuff. There is a concealed pocket on the inside panel of the jacket. The jacket features chrysanthemum and plum blossom design. Trousers: traditional Chinese straight cut with wide legs and an applied waistband of unbleached homespun coarse weave cotton. The trousers feature six-petal flowers, stylised butterflies, bamboo, orchids and other flowers.

Made: Shanghai, China; 1920 - 1949


Owned: McLean, Kate; Shanghai, China

Owned: McLean, Kate; Australia

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1920 - 1949