Chinese belt toggles called 'zhuizi' are small carved ornaments used as counterweights on the cords of pipe bags and other small bags which were usually hung on men's belts.

Chinese clothes were not well provided with pockets, so bags which could be suspended from a belt were useful articles of attire. In order to fulfil its primary purpose of securing things to a belt, a toggle must have what the Chinese called a 'string eye', which could pass a string or cord.

Toggle wearing disappeared from China in the 1940s, when western style clothing replaced traditional clothing.

This dress toggle was made in China between 1700-1940. The form of this toggle is very unusual. Lotus leaves are usually shown accompanying fish such as a pair of godfish or carp, this being a symbol of happy marriage. However this toggle is carved in a form of a snail shell on a rectangular lotus leaf. The maker may have used the agate stone's natural shape and carved it into a resemblant object.

(reference)
Cammann, Schuyler, Substance and Symbol in Chinese Toggles, University of Pennsylvania Press, 1962, London, p.111

This toggle is part of a group that was collected in Peking by Hedda and Alastair Morrison between 1940 and 1942. Most of them were purchased from markets outside Chongwenmen Gate, and in Liulichang, a street known for its antique shops.

Dress accessory, toggle, snail shell and lotus leaf, agate, maker unknown, China, c. 1700-1940

Toggle made of translucent milky white agate with some small patches of brown colouration, relief carved into the form of snail shell on a rectangular lotus leaf. The stem and leaf folds form three small holes for attachment. Incised spiraled lines represent the closed cover over the shell cavity, and the underside of the leaf features a raised coil of the lotus stem.

Made: China; 1700 - 1940

Owned: Morrison, Hedda;

Owned: Morrison, Alastair;

none

92/462

1700 - 1940

30 mm

44 mm

42 mm