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Pictorials > Fashion plates

+ 2003/16/1 Fashion plate, 'Costumes Paris...
+ P3273-6 Fashion plate, Variety of Newest...
+ 2003/16/3 Fashion plates (20), Costumes ...
+ P3273-8 Fashion plate, 12 Fashionable He...
+ 2003/16/5 Fashion plates (2), Costumes P...
+ P3273-10 Fashion plate, 12 Fashionable H...
+ P3273-12 Fashion plate, 12 Fashionable H...
+ 2003/16/9 Fashion plates (6), Costumes P...
+ P3273-14 Fashion plate, paper, 'Twelve F...
+ 2003/16/11 Fashion plates (7), Costumes ...
+ P3273-16 Fashion plate, 2 Ladies in the ...
+ 2003/16/13 Fashion plate, Costumes Paris...
+ P3273-18 Fashion plate, 12 Fashionable H...
+ 2003/16/15 Fashion plates (3), Costumes ...
+ P3273-20 Fashion plate, 12 Fashionable H...
+ 2003/16/17 Fashion plates (2), Costumes ...
+ P3273-22 Fashion plate, 12 fashionable H...
+ 2003/16/18-1 Fashion plate, Costumes Par...
+ P3273-24 Fashion plate, 12 Fashionable H...
+ 2003/16/19 Fashion plates (2), Costumes ...
+ P3273-26 Fashion plate, 'Ten Fashionable...
+ 2003/16/20-5 Fashion plate, Costumes Par...
+ 85/875 Fashion plates (2), Le Coquet, Fr...
+ 2003/16/22 Fashion plates (2), Costumes ...
+ 85/877 Fashion plate, 'Journal des Demoi...
+ 2003/16/24 Fashion plate, Costumes Paris...
+ 85/879 Fashion plate, 'Chic Parisien', A...
+ 2003/16/26 Fashion plate, Costumes Paris...
+ 85/881 Fashion plate, 'Creations de Pari...
+ 2003/16/28 Fashion plates (3), Costumes ...
+ 85/1265 Fashion plates (2), [England], 1...
+ 2003/16/29-1 Fashion plate, Costumes Par...
+ 87/1403 Fashion plate, Henry Petit, Fran...
+ 2003/16/30 Fashion plates (7), Costumes ...
+ 87/1405 Fashion plate, France, 1880...
+ 2003/16/30-4 Fashion plate, Costumes Par...
+ 87/599 Fashion drawing, wash on paper, F...
+ 2003/16/31-9 Fashion plate, Costumes Par...
+ 87/639 Fashion plate, Modes de Paris, Fr...
+ 2003/16/31-15 Fashion plate, Costumes Pa...
+ 87/641 Fashion plate, La Mode Illustree,...
+ 85/875 Fashion plates (2), Le Coquet, Fr...
+ 2003/16/22 Fashion plates (2), Costumes ...
+ 85/877 Fashion plate, 'Journal des Demoi...
+ 2003/16/24 Fashion plate, Costumes Paris...
+ 85/879 Fashion plate, 'Chic Parisien', A...
+ 2003/16/26 Fashion plate, Costumes Paris...
+ 85/881 Fashion plate, 'Creations de Pari...
+ 2003/16/28 Fashion plates (3), Costumes ...



Fives fashion plates from Costumes Parisiens, 1912
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Images: 01 02 03 04 05

Object statement
Fashion plates (5), Costumes Parisiens 24, 29, 32, 36, 43, pochoir (engraved and screen printed / stencilled) print / mounted on card, designed by Roger Broders, Journal des Dames et des Modes, Paris, France, 1912
These fashion plates are from a total collection of 186 Costumes Parisien fashion plates created for the Journal des Dames et des Modes by leading commercial artists of the day - George Barbier, Leon Bakst, Pierre Legrain, Etienne Drian, Victor Lheur, Gerda Wegener, J. van Brock, Armand Vallee and others.

At the time that the plates were produced, the fashionable woman had to own a bewildering number of outfits for different times of the day and for different activities - everything from morning, afternoon and evening dresses to hunting, riding, tennis, garden party, yachting, walking, beach-strolling and 'visiting' outfits. The fashion illustrated in the journal reflects this vogue and the shift from corset structures that anchored dresses around a very narrow waist and ribcage and accentuating hips and breasts, towards a more cylindrical dress form that eventually led to the loose "flapper" dress style of the 1920s. Fashionable children's and men's costume of the day is also illustrated.

The Journal des Dames et des Modes was founded by Tom Antongini, secretary, friend and biographer of poet, connoisseur and collector, Gabriele D'Annunzio (1863-1938) whom he followed into Parisien exile from Italy in 1910. Designed for lovers of rare editions, the Journal aimed to appeal to an audience of connoisseurs and aesthetes and to be a reflection of the intellectual and cultural atmosphere of Paris, and a record of Parisien culture and fashion at the time. It sought to distinguish itself from already existing periodicals, such as Femina and La Vie Parisienne that were produced in thousands and illustrated by photography, with its rich and vivid coloured plates achieved through the pochoir printing process in which up to thirty colour screens or stencils are used to insert colours into the delicate linear designs of the copper plate engravings.

The Journal des Dames et Des Modes lasted only two years. The first issue appeared on 1 June 1912, the last on 1 August 1914 due to the outbreak of World War I. It was issued three times a month with from one to five illustrative plates inserted. The first edition was printed in an edition of 1,250 copies on quality hand-made Holland paper, plus 29 delux copies on Japan paper. Two other Parisien fashion magazines emerged in Paris in 1912 - La Gazette du Bon Ton (1912-1925) founded and published by Lucien Vogel and Modes et Manieres d'Aujourd'hui issued by Corrard and Meynial. All three magazines echoed in their titles, journals that had appeared in the 18th and 19th centuries. While the Journal used many of the same artists as La Gazette, it differed to La Gazette in that its plates of 1912 to 1914 signify the end of an era, 'La Belle Epoque', and the beginning of another. La Gazette on the other hand, which continued into the 1920s, evolved to embrace the new velocity of life by illustrating streamlined fashion against backgrounds that referred to the industrial, mechanised, 'moderne' world of railroads, cars and steamships.

The collection of 143 fashion plates from Journal des Dames et des Modes is offered as a donation to the Powerhouse Museum by Alistair Roberts, a Sydney-based theatre and costume designer and tailor, who assembled the collection with dedication and enthusiasm over several decades.

References:
Ricci, F.M., Costumes Parisiens Journal des Dames et Des Modes Vol 1 & 2, Italy 1979 (Introduction by Christine Nuzzi)
Parisiens Costumes plates in full colour (1912-1914), Dover Publications, New York, 1982
www.camrax.com: Camrax Beverley Birks Couture Collection
www.homestore.com: Alice Van Housen - French Fashion Prints make a statement.

Anne-Marie Van de Ven
Curator, 20 June 2002
Roger Broders (1883-1953)
Travel poster artist. Broders career was based around one major client - the Paris-Lyon-Mediteranee Railway. His art consisted of a breathtaking instinct for colour which he used to lifted tourism clichis into cherished travel moments. Broders was od a new period in tourism poster design and ushered in the style of the 30's. He was especially masterful at setting up compositions. His relatively rare posters are coveted by French collectors and poster connoisseurs.
Broders executed Journal des Dames et des Modes plate nos 24, 29, 32, 36, 43.


Fashion plate created for the Journal des dames et des modes, Paris 1912
Purchased by donor for private collection from various vendors in Sydney and internationally, including at flea markets on the left bank of the River Seine, Paris.

 This text content licensed under CC BY-NC.

Description
Fashion plates (5), Costumes Parisiens 24, 29, 32, 36, 43, pochoir (engraved and screen printed / stencilled) print / mounted on card, designed by Roger Broders, Journal des Dames et des Modes, Paris, France, 1912

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 24, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, 'Robe de The en velours aubergine ocelle d'oeils de Paon Fourreau gris d'Acier - Turban aigrette d'un Lophophore', des. Roger Broders. Paris, 1912. Printed on Japan paper. Inscribed and labelled on the back.

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 32, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, 'Robe de soie de Chine bordee de chinchilla. Manteau de volours citron vert a grand col et parements de chinchilla, gland d'argent', des. Roger Broders, Paris, 1912. Inscribed on the back.

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 36, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, 'Grand manteau de Loutre. Col d'hermine. Chapeau noir a plume changeante', des. Roger Broders, Paris, 1912

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 43, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, 'Tailleur de matin en velours de laine orne de Skungs', des. Roger Broders, Paris, 1912

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 29, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, 'Robe et Toque de velours de soie vert de mer bordees d'hermine', des. Roger Broders, Paris, 1912. Inscribed on the back.

Artist: Roger Broders; Paris, France; 1912
Marks
Inscribed on the back of plate number 24, centre, in lead pencil, 'M3935 / from / "Journal des Dames et des Modes" / published in Paris 1912-14 / plate by Roger Broders 1912 / pochoir colour / Special Limited Edition of 29 / printed on Japan paper / issued concurrently'
Gold label on the back of plate number 24, bottom centre, inscribed on the label, 'PHILLIPS / 372 Pacific Highway / CROWS NEST NSW 2065 / Telephone: 43 4038'
Inscribed on the back of plate number 32, bottom right corner in lead pencil, 'g 20263' ('g 20263 enclosed in a circle.)
Inscribed on the back of plate number 29, upper right corner, in lead pencil, 'P964'
2003/16/7
Production date
1912

 This text content licensed under CC BY-SA.
Acquisition credit line
Donated through the Australian Government Cultural Gifts Program by Alistair Roberts, 2003
Subjects
+ Dresses
+ Coats
+ Hats
+ French Fashion
+ Graphic arts
Short persistent URL
Concise link back to this object: http://from.ph/11922
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{{cite web |url=http://from.ph/11922 |title=Fives fashion plates from Costumes Parisiens |author=Powerhouse Museum |accessdate=23 July 2014 |publisher=Powerhouse Museum, Australia}}


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