These fashion plates are from a total collection of 186 Costumes Parisien fashion plates created for the Journal des Dames et des Modes by leading commercial artists of the day - George Barbier, Leon Bakst, Pierre Legrain, Etienne Drian, Victor Lheur, Gerda Wegener, J. van Brock, Armand Vallee and others.

At the time that the plates were produced, the fashionable woman had to own a bewildering number of outfits for different times of the day and for different activities - everything from morning, afternoon and evening dresses to hunting, riding, tennis, garden party, yachting, walking, beach-strolling and 'visiting' outfits. The fashion illustrated in the journal reflects this vogue and the shift from corset structures that anchored dresses around a very narrow waist and ribcage and accentuating hips and breasts, towards a more cylindrical dress form that eventually led to the loose "flapper" dress style of the 1920s. Fashionable children's and men's costume of the day is also illustrated.

The Journal des Dames et des Modes was founded by Tom Antongini, secretary, friend and biographer of poet, connoisseur and collector, Gabriele D'Annunzio (1863-1938) whom he followed into Parisien exile from Italy in 1910. Designed for lovers of rare editions, the Journal aimed to appeal to an audience of connoisseurs and aesthetes and to be a reflection of the intellectual and cultural atmosphere of Paris, and a record of Parisien culture and fashion at the time. It sought to distinguish itself from already existing periodicals, such as Femina and La Vie Parisienne that were produced in thousands and illustrated by photography, with its rich and vivid coloured plates achieved through the pochoir printing process in which up to thirty colour screens or stencils are used to insert colours into the delicate linear designs of the copper plate engravings.

The Journal des Dames et Des Modes lasted only two years. The first issue appeared on 1 June 1912, the last on 1 August 1914 due to the outbreak of World War I. It was issued three times a month with from one to five illustrative plates inserted. The first edition was printed in an edition of 1,250 copies on quality hand-made Holland paper, plus 29 delux copies on Japan paper. Two other Parisien fashion magazines emerged in Paris in 1912 - La Gazette du Bon Ton (1912-1925) founded and published by Lucien Vogel and Modes et Manieres d'Aujourd'hui issued by Corrard and Meynial. All three magazines echoed in their titles, journals that had appeared in the 18th and 19th centuries. While the Journal used many of the same artists as La Gazette, it differed to La Gazette in that its plates of 1912 to 1914 signify the end of an era, 'La Belle Epoque', and the beginning of another. La Gazette on the other hand, which continued into the 1920s, evolved to embrace the new velocity of life by illustrating streamlined fashion against backgrounds that referred to the industrial, mechanised, 'moderne' world of railroads, cars and steamships.

The collection of 143 fashion plates from Journal des Dames et des Modes is offered as a donation to the Powerhouse Museum by Alistair Roberts, a Sydney-based theatre and costume designer and tailor, who assembled the collection with dedication and enthusiasm over several decades.

References:
Ricci, F.M., Costumes Parisiens Journal des Dames et Des Modes Vol 1 & 2, Italy 1979 (Introduction by Christine Nuzzi)
Parisiens Costumes plates in full colour (1912-1914), Dover Publications, New York, 1982
www.camrax.com: Camrax Beverley Birks Couture Collection
www.homestore.com: Alice Van Housen - French Fashion Prints make a statement.

Anne-Marie Van de Ven
Curator, 20 June 2002

Georges Barbier (Nantes 1882 - Paris 1932)
Studied at the Ecole des Beaux Arts, Paris. Barbier produced a large number of outstanding illustrations for the Journal des dames et des modes including plate nos 3, 8, 15, 21, 30, 35, 39, 42, 46, 51, 56, 61, 69, 71, 80, 84, 91, 96, 101, 104, 105, 112, 116, 150, 156, 164, 168, 170. In his early works (Pls 3 and 8) he seemed somewhat restrained by a concern for 'pure' and precise design as shown in the high waisted Tailleur in Pale-Grey Silk, recalling Empire mode. He later responded to more advanced percepts of fashion as in his Pink Damask Cloak trimmed with Blue Fox (Pl 35) in which he revealed that he had mastered his style, not so much by adhering to the 'Persian' taste', but by his richer and more dazzling pallet influenced by the Ballet Russes and Lepape's album for Poiret. His work progressed to more compact layouts of colour confined by outlines, a sign of Art Deco, though Barbier's style never became completely abstract. In his White Crepe de Chine Gown Trimmed with White Fox (Pl 39), the characteristic decorative motifs of Art Deco are there but the linear rhythms still display a subtleness reminiscent of Art Nouveau. The theme of the eighteenth century interested Barbier, as in seen in his Longi Masquerade plate. In his later conceptions such as the Black 'Charmeuse' Dress (Pl 80) and the Gala Evening Gown in Tulle and Silk (Pl 84) an explosion of colour and graceful, agitated line derived from eightenteenth-century art evolved and were to characterise his work from around 1920.

Reference
Ricci, F.M., Costumes Parisiens Journal desDames et Des Modes Vol 1 & 2, Italy 1979] including introduction by Christine Nuzzi.

Fashion plates created for the Journal des dames et des modes, Paris 1912-1914

Purchased by donor for private collection from various vendors in Sydney and internationally, including at flea markets on the left bank of the River Seine, Paris.

Fashion plates (20), Costumes Parisiens, pochoir (engraved and screen printed / stencilled) print / mounted on card, designed by Georges Barbier, Journal des Dames et des Modes, Paris, France, 1912-1914

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 8, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, 'Tailleur de Satin gris de perle. Chapeau de paille noir', des. Georges Barbier, Paris, 1912

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 21, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, 'Robe de drap blanc borde d'un ourlet couleur de rose. Ceinture de roses au crochet', des. Georges Barbier, Paris, 1912

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 30, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, 'Manteau de Libeline a col et poignets de renard blanc', des. Georges Barbier, Paris, 1912

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 35, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, 'Manteau de Damas rose garni de Renard bleu Coiffure de Paradis noirs', des. Georges Barbier, Paris, 1912. Printed on Japan paper. Inscribed and labelled on the back.

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 46, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, 'Robe du soir satin noir et tulle, bordee de brillants', des. Georges Barbier, Paris, 1913. Printed on Japan paper. Inscribed on the back.

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 51, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, 'Pour St. Moritz. Ratine blanche garnie de Skunks et brodee de laines', des. Georges Barbier, Paris, 1913

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 56, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, ' Travestissement d'apres Longhi: Robe de damas galonnee de blanc sur laquelle on jettera une baute de taffetas noir et de dentelle', des. Georges Barbier, Paris, 1913

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 61, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, 'Robe d'interieur en soie brochee, ouverte sur un dessous de linon', des. Georges Barbier, Paris, 1913

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 69, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, 'Grande robe du soir, corsage de mousseline chair tunique de soie brodee dans le gout de la "Compagnie des Ind" ', des. Georges Barbier, Paris, 1913

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 71, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, 'Manteau de Theatre', des. Georges Barbier, Paris, 1913

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 80, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, 'Robe de charmeuse noire avec corsage et panier formes d'un obi drape', des. Georges Barbier, Paris, 1913. Printed on Japan paper. Inscribed on the back.

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 84, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, 'Grande robe du soir en tulle et satin. - Echarpe de velours a glands de perles', des. Georges Barbier, Paris, 1913

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 96, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, ' Robe de chambre', des. Georges Barbier, Paris, 1913

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 104, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, 'Robe de linon imprime', des. Georges Barbier, 1913. Inscribed on the back.

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 105, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, 'Blouse japonaise en soie sur un jupe plissee. Marin de toile blanche', des. Georges Barbier, Paris, 1913

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 112, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, Manteau de velours blanc brode de perles Robe de damas blanc Souliers roses', des. Georges Barbier, Paris, 1913. Inscribed on the back.

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 116, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, 'Mantelet de taffetas "a la vielle" garni d'une chenille verte. - Manchon brode de perles', des. Georges Barbier, Paris, 1913. Inscribed and labelled on the back.

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 156, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, 'Tailleur de ratine verte et velours noir', des. Georges Barbier, Paris, 1914. Inscribed on the back.

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 164, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, 'Costume de Yacht: veste de drap, dupe de toile, chapeau de cuir', des. Georges Barbier, Paris, 1914

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 168, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, 'Grande robe du soir en brocart d'argent Perruque bleue, aigrettes' des. Georges Barbier, Paris, 1914

Artist: Barbier, Georges; Paris, France; 1912 - 1914

Inscribed on the back of plate number 35, 'M3936 / from / "Journal des Dames et des Modes" / published in Paris 1912-14 / plate by George (sic) Barbier 1912 / pochoir colour / Special Limited Edition of 29 / printed on Japan paper / issued concurrently',
Gold coloured label on the back bottom centre of plate number 35, 'PHILLIPS / 372 Pacific Highway / CROWS NEST NSW 2065 / Telephone: 43 4038'

Inscribed on the back of plate number 46, 'M4084 / from / "Journal des Dames a (sic) des Modes" / published in Paris 1912-14 / plate by George (sic) Barbier / pochoir colour / Special Limited Edition of 29 / printed on Japan paper / issued concurrently'

Inscribed on the back of plate number 80, 'M4088 / from / "Journal des Dames et des Modes" / published in Paris 1912 - 14 / plate by George (sic) Barbier / pochoir colour / Special Limited Edition of 29 / printed on Japan paper / issued concurrently'

Inscribed on the back of plate number 104, upper right corner, 'P964'

Inscribed on the back of plate number 112, upper right corner, 'P964'

Inscribed on the back of plate number 116, top right corner, in lead pencil 'P4537',
White coloured label on the back of plate number 116, bottom centre, insribed on it 'Plate no. 116 / by George (sic) Barbier 1913 / from / ' Journal des Dames et des Modes ' (underlined) / published in Paris / 1912-1914 (underlined) / engraving and pochoir'
Inscribed on the back of plate number 116, lower right corner, in lead pencil, 'T'

Inscribed on the back of plate number 156, upper right corner, in lead pencil, 'P964'

2003/16/3

1912 - 1914