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Pictorials > Fashion plates

+ 88/291 Fashion plates, (5), paper/cardbo...
+ 2003/16/19 Fashion plates (2), Costumes ...
+ 2003/16/17 Fashion plates (2), Costumes ...
+ 2003/16/18-1 Fashion plate, Costumes Par...
+ 2003/16/9 Fashion plates (6), Costumes P...
+ 2003/16/11 Fashion plates (7), Costumes ...
+ 2003/16/13 Fashion plate, Costumes Paris...
+ 2003/16/15 Fashion plates (3), Costumes ...
+ P886 Highly finished engravings, (30), m...
+ P3273 Fashion plates, (60), engraved, fr...
+ P3273-1 Fashion plate, A Lady in the Dre...
+ P3273-2 Fashion plate, a lady and childr...
+ P3273-3 Fashion plate, 12 of the Newest ...
+ P3273-4 Fashion plate, Variety of the Ne...
+ 2003/16/1 Fashion plate, 'Costumes Paris...
+ 2003/16/3 Fashion plates (20), Costumes ...
+ 2003/16/5 Fashion plates (2), Costumes P...
+ 2003/16/7 Fashion plates (5), Costumes P...
+ 2003/16/20-5 Fashion plate, Costumes Par...
+ P3273-28 Fashion plate, 'Ten Fashionable...
+ P3273-29 Fashion plate, 'Ladies in the D...
+ P3273-30 Fashion plate, 'Ten Fashionable...
+ P3273-31 Fashion plate, Ladies in the Dr...
+ P3273-32 Fashion plate, Ten Fashionable ...
+ P3273-33 Fashion plate, Ladies in the Dr...
+ P3273-34 Fashion plate, Ladies of Qualit...
+ P3273-35 Fashion plate, Ladies in the Dr...
+ P3273-36 Fashion plate, Fashionable Head...
+ P3273-37 Fashion plate, Ladies in the Dr...
+ P3273-38 Fashion plate, Fashionable Head...
+ P3273-39 Fashion plate, Ladies in the Dr...
+ P3273-40 Fashion plate, Fashionable Head...
+ P3273-41 Fashion plate, Ladies in the Dr...
+ P3273-42 Fashion plate, Fashionable Head...
+ P3273-43 Fashion plate, Ladies in the Dr...
+ P3273-44 Fashion plate, Ladies in the Mo...
+ P3273-45 Fashion plate, Ladies in the Dr...
+ P3273-46 Fashion plate, Fashionable Head...
+ P3273-47 Fashion plate, Ladies in the Dr...
+ P3273-48 Fashion plate, Fashionable Head...
+ P3273-49 Fashion plate, Ladies in the Dr...
+ P3273-50 Fashion plate, Fashionable Head...
+ P3273-51 Fashion plate, Ladies in the Mo...
+ P3273-52 Fashion plate, Ladies in the Dr...
+ P3273-53 Fashion plate, Fashionable Head...
+ P3273-54 Fashion plate, Ladies in the Dr...
+ P3273-55 Fashion plate, Head Dresses of ...
+ P3273-56 Fashion plate, Dresses for the ...
+ P3273-57 Fashion plate, Fashionable Head...
+ P3273-58 Fashion plate, Dresses for the ...



Two fashion plates from Costumes Parisiens, 1913
This image is not currently available as a higher resolution full colour zoom. This may be because this object has not been moved from storage and re-photographed in recent times.
Images: 01 02

Object statement
Fashion plates (2), Costumes Parisiens 49, 54, pochoir (engraved and screen printed / stencilled) print / mounted on card, designed by Robert Pichenot, Journal des Dames et des Modes, Paris, France, 1913
These fashion plates are from a collection of 186 Costumes Parisien fashion plates created for the Journal des Dames et des Modes by leading commercial artists of the day - George Barbier, Leon Bakst, Pierre Legrain, Etienne Drian, Victor Lheur, Gerda Wegener, J. van Brock, Armand Vallee and others.

At the time that the plates were produced, the fashionable woman had to own a bewildering number of outfits for different times of the day and for different activities - everything from morning, afternoon and evening dresses to hunting, riding, tennis, garden party, yachting, walking, beach-strolling and 'visiting' outfits. The fashion illustrated in the journal reflects this vogue and the shift from corset structures that anchored dresses around a very narrow waist and ribcage and accentuating hips and breasts, towards a more cylindrical dress form that eventually led to the loose "flapper" dress style of the 1920s. Fashionable children's and men's costume of the day is also illustrated.

The Journal des Dames et des Modes was founded by Tom Antongini, secretary, friend and biographer of poet, connoisseur and collector, Gabriele D'Annunzio (1863-1938) whom he followed into Parisien exile from Italy in 1910. Designed for lovers of rare editions, the Journal aimed to appeal to an audience of connoisseurs and aesthetes and to be a reflection of the intellectual and cultural atmosphere of Paris, and a record of Parisien culture and fashion at the time. It sought to distinguish itself from already existing periodicals, such as Femina and La Vie Parisienne that were produced in thousands and illustrated by photography, with its rich and vivid coloured plates achieved through the pochoir printing process in which up to thirty colour screens or stencils are used to insert colours into the delicate linear designs of the copper plate engravings.

The Journal des Dames et Des Modes lasted only two years. The first issue appeared on 1 June 1912, the last on 1 August 1914 due to the outbreak of World War I. It was issued three times a month with from one to five illustrative plates inserted. The first edition was printed in an edition of 1,250 copies on quality hand-made Holland paper, plus 29 delux copies on Japan paper. Two other Parisien fashion magazines emerged in Paris in 1912 - La Gazette du Bon Ton (1912-1925) founded and published by Lucien Vogel and Modes et Manieres d'Aujourd'hui issued by Corrard and Meynial. All three magazines echoed in their titles, journals that had appeared in the 18th and 19th centuries. While the Journal used many of the same artists as La Gazette, it differed to La Gazette in that its plates of 1912 to 1914 signify the end of an era, 'La Belle Epoque', and the beginning of another. La Gazette on the other hand, which continued into the 1920s, evolved to embrace the new velocity of life by illustrating streamlined fashion against backgrounds that referred to the industrial, mechanised, 'moderne' world of railroads, cars and steamships.

The collection of 143 fashion plates from the Journal des Dames et des Modes is offered as a donation to the Powerhouse Museum by Alistair Roberts, a Sydney-based theatre and costume designer and tailor, who assembled the collection with dedication and enthusiasm over several decades.

References:
Ricci, F.M., Costumes Parisiens Journal des Dames et Des Modes Vol 1 & 2, Italy 1979 (Introduction by Christine Nuzzi)
Parisiens Costumes plates in full colour (1912-1914), Dover Publications, New York, 1982
www.camrax.com: Camrax Beverley Birks Couture Collection
www.homestore.com: Alice Van Housen - French Fashion Prints make a statement.

Anne-Marie Van de Ven
Curator, 20 June 2002
Robert Pichenot, Paris
Executed Journal des Dames et des Modes plate nos 49 and 54.


Fashion plate created for the Journal des dames et des modes, Paris 1913
Purchased by donor for private collection from various vendors in Sydney and internationally, including at flea markets on the left bank of the River Seine, Paris

 This text content licensed under CC BY-NC.

Description
Fashion plates (2), Costumes Parisiens 49, 54, pochoir (engraved and screen printed / stencilled) print / mounted on card, designed by Robert Pichenot, Journal des Dames et des Modes, Paris, France, 1913

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 49, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, 'Robe de charmeuse blanche a tunique de mousseline de soie violette brodee de vert et bordee de skungs. Manteau de velours etrusque', des. Robert Pichenot, Paris, 1913. Inscribed and labelled on the back.

Fashion plate, Journal des dames et des modes, Costumes Parisiens No 54, engraved and screen printed 'pochoir' print, ' Toilette de nuit en linon a pois garnie de dentelle et de petites roses', des. Robert Pichenot, Paris, 1913. Inscribed and labelled on the back.

Artist: Pichenot, Robert; Paris, France; 1913
Marks
Inscribed on the back of plate number 49, centre, in lead pencil, 'M3726 / from / 'Journal des Dames et des Modes' / published in Paris 1912 - 1914 / plate by Robert Pichenot / 1913 / pochoir colour'
Gold coloured label attached to the back of plate number 49, bottom centre, inscribed on the label, 'PHILLIPS / 372 Pacific Highway / CROWS NEST NSW 2065 / Telephone: 43 4038'

Inscribed on the back of plate number 54, centre, in lead pencil, 'M2631 / from / "Journal des Dames et des Modes" / published in Paris 1912 - 1914 / plate by Robert Pichenot / 1913 / pochoir colour'
Inscribed on the back of plate number 54, lower right corner, in lead pencil, 'CONSERVATION / BOARD'
Gold coloured label attached to the back of plate number 54, bottom centre, inscribed on the label, 'PHILLIPS / 372 Pacific Highway / Crows Nest, NSW 2065 / Phone: 43 -4038'
2003/16/22
Production date
1913

 This text content licensed under CC BY-SA.
Acquisition credit line
Donated through the Australian Government Cultural Gifts Program by Alistair Roberts, 2003
Subjects
+ Dresses
+ Coats
Short persistent URL
Concise link back to this object: http://from.ph/11908
Cite this object in Wikipedia
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{{cite web |url=http://from.ph/11908 |title=Two fashion plates from Costumes Parisiens |author=Powerhouse Museum |accessdate=26 April 2015 |publisher=Powerhouse Museum, Australia}}


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