Peter Lau is a Hong Kong-based designer who has worked in the fashion industry since the 1970s. Lau started his own business in 1982 and in 1990 launched XCVIII Ninety Eight, a label for special occasion wear. He later launched China Doll, a division of XCVIII Ninety Eight designed for the teenage market. Lau's clothing is sought after in Hong Kong, Taiwan and Japan.

This ensemble from his 1996-97 China Doll XCVIII Ninety-Eight collection 'Neo-punk in China' represents not only the work of an established designer but also a significant period in history. With its companion outfits from Lau's 1997-98 collection 'Winter under the Red Flag', the ensemble looks towards the then impending handover of Hong Kong, a major Asian fashion centre, to China on 1 July 1997. Fashion designers in both Hong Kong and mainland China drew inspiration from the prospect of the return of Hong Kong to Chinese sovereignty and the changes, positive as well as negative, it heralded. In this overtly sexy outfit, Lau has teamed a cheeky sheer paper nylon jacket, which features an incongruous red woollen collar, with a super-short red silk satin skirt screenprinted with the yellow stars of the Chinese flag. The outfit, like much of the designer's work, is imbued with a playful, raunchy, interpretation of a Chinese aesthetic.

Designed by Hong Kong-based designer Peter Lau (born 1955) as part of his Autumn-Winter 1996-97 collection, 'Neo-punk in China' for his label China Doll XCVIII Ninety Eight. The collection was inspired by the then impending handover of Hong Kong to Chinese rule (1 July 1997).

Peter Lau has worked in the fashion industry since the 1970s. In the mid 1970s he worked for knitwear and denim manufacturers and between 1975 and 1979 studied textile technology at the Hong Kong Polytechnic. Lau established his own business in 1982 and in 1990 launched XCVIII Ninety-Eight, a label for special occasion wear. China Doll is a division of XCVIII aimed at the teenage market. The primary markets for Lau's garments are in Hong Kong, Taiwan and Japan.


Manufactured in 1996 for Peter Lau's fashion label China Doll, a division of his label XCVIII Ninety-Eight, established in 1990.

Manufactured in 1996 for Peter Lau's fashion label China Doll, a division of XCVIII Ninety-Eight. The outfit featured in Lau's Autumn-Winter 1996-97 collection, 'Neo-punk in China'.

Ensemble, womens, comprising jacket/ skirt/ shoes/ socks/ headdress, 'Neo punk in China collection', Peter Lau/ China Doll XCVIII Ninety Eight, Hong Kong, Autumn-Winter 1996-97.

Jacket: tight fitting, tailored jacket to hip length made of beige paper nylon. The jacket has long, straight sleeves slightly gathered at the shoulders and a high neckline with large turn down collar made of thick red polyester. There is a short vent at centre back hem and the centre front opening fastens with five red floral fabric covered buttons. The jacket is machine sewn and unlined.

Skirt: micro-mini hipster skirt made of red polyester satin. The tight fitting skirt is decorated on the front with five yellow screenprinted stars of the Chinese flag. Proper left side seam opening fastens with a red nylon invisible zipper. The skirt is machine sewn and fully lined with red polyester.

Socks: pair of long socks with shaped heel and seamed toes made of opaque red lycra.

Shoes: pair of platform Mary Jane shoes made of red patent leather. The rounded toes shoes have a strap across the arch that fastens with a small silver metal buckle. Platform soles and high shaped heels. Black plastic soles and black leatherette lining and inner soles.

Headdress: made up of two strings of coloured pom poms. One string has five pom poms, two yellow and pink, one blue and one purple. The other string has one sky blue, one purple, one light pink, and one dark pink. All are of fine will and they are strung together with fine coloured yarn.

Designed: Lau, Peter; Hong Kong

Made: Lau, Peter; Hong Kong; 1996

Jacket: red and yellow fabric label inside proper left side seam 'China Doll/XCVIII NINETY EIGHT', White plastic label same position 'DRY CLEAN ONLY'.
Skirt: same labels as jacket inside proper right side seam, and black fabric label in same position 'M'.
Shoes: inside on innersole black fabric labels 'XCVIII/NINETY EIGHT'. On innersole black and gold sticker '10'.

2002/21/1