Tag Archive for 'haute couture'

When Haute Couture is not Haute Couture

Published by Melanie Pitkin 2 Comments Tags: , , .
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Fashion illustration of Balenciaga dress by Alfredo Bouret . Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

 

Which French fashion house refused to join the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne and still does not belong today (which technically means that this fashion house is not even recognised as Haute Couture in the legal sense!)?

While you’re thinking, I’ll explain the name. Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture Parisienne (“Trade Union of Parisian High Fashion”) is one of three entities (along with prêt-a-porter men, or ready-to-wear clothing for men, and prêt-a-porter women, ready-to-wear clothing for women) making up the Fédération Française de la Couture, du Prêt-à-Porter des Couturiers et des Créateurs de Mode (yes – it’s a mouthful, but means “The French Federation of Fashion and of Ready-to-Wear Couturiers and Fashion Designers”)! It was founded in Paris in 1868 by Englishman, Charles Frederick Worth, initially to stop couture designs from being copied, but now plays more of a role in positioning and promoting French fashion and style.

CharlesWorthCharles Frederick Worth, Image courtesy of The Bourne Archive

The fashion house in question is Balenciaga. Founded by Cristobel Balenciaga in San Sebastian, Spain in 1918 (he opened a House in Paris 19 years later), Balenciaga refused to join the Chambre Syndicale for several reasons. He was a very private man. He avoided the press and he resisted the strict guidelines set forth by the Syndicale, which included during Balenciaga’s time: showing two collections per year; producing 75 new and original designs of day and evening wear for each of these collections and employing a minimum of 20 full-time people in their atelier. He also never wanted the House of Balenciaga to work for the mass-market, as Dior did, preferring to maintain an exclusive private clientele.

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Designed by Balenciaga. Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

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Today the fashion house is still not listed as a member of the Chambre Syndicale, continuing to respect Balenciaga’s wishes. But, what does this mean for them in the 21st century? I mean, the Syndicale protects couture houses from counterfeiting, now one of the biggest threats to the industry (although some may speculate whether or not this protection is actually succeeding) and is an advisory body, which surely serves as some kind of a safety net or guarantor to the fashion houses, and has been embraced by other big names like Chanel, Dior, Lacroix, Givenchy and Gaultier.

What is your take on Balenciaga and the Chambre Syndicale?

Dior Couture Inside Out

Published by Melanie Pitkin 3 Comments Tags: , , , .
dioronmodel

Designed by Christian Dior. Collection, Powerhouse Museum

To fully appreciate Haute Couture and the workmanship involved, you need to look beyond the exterior at the cut, stitching and underpinning. So, we’ve decided to turn one of our Dior garments inside out, the one we believe belonged to Mrs Elizabeth Parke Firestone (or her daughter, also called Elizabeth – thanks Bob!), which I blogged about earlier!

Bodice_Outside

Designed by Christian Dior. Collection, Powerhouse Museum

The first shot, above, is the outside of the bodice, but showing the extra details you can’t normally see when worn. There is a zipper which extends beyond the line of the garment to prevent bulkiness around the bottom, black elastic to attach to the stockings and buttons which fasten to the inside of the waist – all intimate details which help to keep the garment close-fitting and securely in place. From the waist down, silk has also been used instead of wool, to take away that added bulk which would be apparent from having two layers of wool.

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Designed by Christian Dior. Collection, Powerhouse Museum

Looking at the front of the bodice, inside out, there is blue padding on the breasts to create fullness.

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Designed by Christian Dior. Collection, Powerhouse Museum

And, here you can better see the extended zipper, which has been put in by hand rather than machine sewn.

skirtinout

Designed by Christian Dior. Collection, Powerhouse Museum

Inside the waist of the skirt are fasteners to which the buttons on the bodice can be attached.

jacketinout

Designed by Christian Dior. Collection, Powerhouse Museum

And, there are spare buttons sewn to the inside of the swing back jacket. As you will also notice, everything is lined to prevent the scratchy feel of the wool against the skin.

diorcomplete

Designed by Christian Dior. Collection, Powerhouse Museum

All of these underpinnings help to make the suit smooth fitting, slimline and elegant.

What other garments in the fashion collection would you like us to explore ‘inside out’?

Who wore this Dior?

Published by Melanie Pitkin 6 Comments Tags: , , , .
Dior2

Designed by Chrisitan Dior. Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

Haute Couture (or “High Fashion”), as the name suggests, is not for just anyone. It is the pinnacle of fashion, made specifically to the exact dimensions of the wearer, in high quality, luxurious fabrics, virtually all by hand (the seams are machine sewn), and a single garment can take up to 4 months to make. But, when it comes to Haute Couture, you’re not just buying a piece of clothing; you’re buying a piece of art!

So who wore this Dior?

It is a three piece suit of blue wool serge designed by Christian Dior for the Spring 1950 ‘Vertical Line’ collection. It features a bodice with long pencil skirt and swing back jacket. The Museum purchased the outfit from a vendor in London in 1994, who informs us that it was owned by a female member of the Firestone family (founders of the Firestone tyre company) of Detroit, USA.

Of the women in this family, Mrs Elizabeth Parke Firestone is the most thought-of for her expensive taste and fashion sense. Elizabeth (1897-1990) was married to Harvey S. Firestone Jr, son of the founder of the Firestone Tyre and Rubber Company. Her daughter, Martha Firestone, married William Clay Ford Snr, grandson of Henry Ford.

elizfirestoneMrs Elizabeth Parke Firestone, Image courtesy of The Henry Ford Research Center

Between 1915 and 1975, Elizabeth acquired an impressive wardrobe of Haute Couture garments, many of which are now in the collection of the Benson Ford Research Center in Dearborn, Michigan, and gained a reputation for being one of America’s “best dressed women”. Dior and Balenciaga were her preferred designers and amongst the collection is a 1952 Christian Dior red silk faille dress with matching shoes, a sketch for a gown sent for approval in 1956 (Elizabeth often purchased garments without ever having tried them on!) and a stunning 1953 Balenciaga linen print dress.

Some research with the Benson Ford Research Center, however, was unfortunately unable to confirm if Elizabeth was, in fact, the owner of this suit. Their collection of Firestone Family Papers includes several folders of correspondence with Christian Dior, but alas, without any reference to this 1950 piece. However, not all of Elizabeth’s couture collection went to the Center. Some were also sold at auction and some were donated to colleges in Ohio.

europe54Image courtesy of The Henry Ford Research Center

In the meantime, if anyone can shed light on the Firestone family and this particular Dior suit, please let us know.

Next week, I will be taking you inside the suit – looking at the intimate details normally obscured to the eye – and the workmanship involved in making a couture suit, like this, sit absolutely perfectly on the wearer!