Monthly Archive for January, 2010

Underwear for down there

Photography by David Mist © all rights reserved. 96/44/1-6/3/1. Above - negative of female model's torso, 1969. Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

Venus Williams turned heads this week with her skin coloured underwear (see the controversial shot here), leading many to believe she actually forgot to put her underpants on! Venus designed the underpants for her fashion label ‘EleVen’, saying they were meant to “highlight the thigh-high and V neck splits” of her dress.

Skin-coloured underwear has been around for a long time. Until the beginning of the 20th century, underwear was usually white because washing was done with bleach and boiled water. As clothing became less voluminous and finer and more translucent fabrics (such as silk) were used, skin-coloured and white underwear was worn to maintain modesty.

The Powerhouse Museum has a diverse range of underwear that could easily rival Venus in the fashion stakes (even if they are completely impractical for tennis) and which are bound to capture the imagination of our readers!

Designed by Berlei. Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

A8211-8.

Our first example is a matching bra and brief set of cream coloured stretch nylon with a silky satin finish, decorated with white fabric and yellow velour centred daisy flowers. It was designed and made by Berlei Ltd in Australia in 1970 as a reference sample. The Powerhouse Museum holds the Berlei Ltd archive in its collection.

Designed by Issey Miyake. Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

 2001/106/2.

This is a pair of hipster underpants, belonging to an ensemble (known as ‘A-POC’- an acronym for ‘A Piece of Cloth’) which includes a top, skirt, bra, socks, gloves, hat and a bag designed by Issey Miyake in Tokyo, Japan in 1999. They are made from a stretch double knit fabric of cotton, nylon and polyurethane, unsewn and unlined, with a diamond and stripe design and short fringe around the leg holes. The pants, like all the pieces in ‘A-POC’, were produced using computer software linked to a basic knitting machine normally used for making hosiery.

Designed by Baz Luhrmann, Catherine Martin and Angus Strathie. Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

2008/199/7.

This is a pair of yellow cotton French knickers worn by Veronica Beattie for the Tattoo Can Can in the movie, Moulin Rouge. It was designed by Baz Luhrmann, Catherine Martin and Angus Strathie in Sydney, 2000 and features clear sequins and beads down the centre front seam and under the crotch; black embroidery and appliqué decoration around the gathered legs and the waist is fastened using a drawstring. This is one of six elaborate pairs of knickers designed and made for Moulin Rouge in the Museum’s collection.

Designed by Bonds. Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

2008/40/1.

In October 2002, Bonds released a winter collection of women’s cotton underwear inspired by the bold prints and colours of 1960s graphic design, among which included this particular set. The hipster, boyleg-cut underpants, made of printed cotton elastine jersey, were designed by Georgina Braham in Wentworthville and made by Bonds Industries Ltd in China. This range formed part of the company’s move away from their traditionally plain colours and styles to a revitalized range of printed and coloured underwear, which catered for a younger, female market.

Designed by Gretel Pinniger. Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

 A8203.

This is a leather and animal fur g-string designed by Gretel Pinniger, aka Madame Lash, in 1981. It was actually made especially for display in the exhibition ‘The Fabric of History’ held at the exhibition centre, ANZ bank in Martin Place in July, 1981, along with other examples of leather costume and accessories, later acquired by the Powerhouse.

Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

 H5343.

This is an example of men’s underwear from the 1950s made of Terylene (polyester), before the introduction of printed and coloured garments which emerged in the same decade.

Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

H6699-6.

These open-leg bloomers were practical examples of underwear for women in the 19th century. They allowed women to squat and go to the toilet without having to remove layers of clothing, which was much easier than undoing tapes and waistbands which kept petticoats in place.

Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

95/163/1.

And, this is a pair of women’s cotton underpants from China dated to 1994. They are army green in colour and feature a sneaky little zippered pocket in the front with the words ‘High class anti-bandit underpants’! This suggests the pocket was used for hiding much sought after personal belongings, perhaps money or car and house keys, although it may have also been used for holding condoms – to serve as a subliminal message of safe sex and to try and curb the escalating Chinese population.

In light of these examples from the Museum’s collection, I don’t think Venus’s choice of underpants were that shocking after all! What do you think?

Back to School lunches

Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

This poster from our collection was issued by the NSW Department of Health in the 1950s. It shows the wise headmaster (in cap and gown) pointing out the formula for a healthy lunch to Jimmy who stands to attention with his hands behind his back. I’m not sure what to make of Jimmy’s expression – surprise or perhaps alarm at the prospect of wholemeal bread and butter with meat and salad or fruit?

The same health message is still promoted today, however, these days taste and variety are just as important in appealing to healthy eating habits. Look at this example about bread from the Children, Youth and Women’s Health Service of South Australia.

Courtesy of Children, Youth and Women’s Health Service of South Australia

The site lists 14 varieties of bread (not counting the “heaps of others”) and is aimed at children shopping for what they like themselves.

I doubt Jimmy (or even the headmaster) would have known more than two varieties of bread – Wholemeal (or Brown) and White.

When I was in school Vegemite sandwiches on white bread were the staple for many of us. What did you have in your sandwiches?

Esmarch Triangular Bandage

bandage 002

Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

When I came across the Esmarch triangular bandage in my research, I was immediately drawn to the line (After Esmarch).

bandage 003

Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

Was it a person, place or manufacturer? And why was the bandage after Esmarch? To my delight, I discovered Esmarch was a person.

Today, a bandage seems like a normal thing for one to encounter in a first aid kit. This was not always the case. The triangular bandage is attributed to Johann Friedrich August von Esmarch. Esmarch was born 1823, a German surgeon who specialized in trauma and military medicine. During the Franco-Prussian war in 1870-1871, he became the Surgeon General. War fare technology was evolving in the Franco-Prussian war, but trauma medicine was lagging. Esmarch recommended that it become mandatory for first aid kits to be carried by every soldier on the battle field. He was among the first to push for the teaching of first aid to all people, not just medical professionals.

bandage 004

Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

This enabled soldiers to perform triage on the battle field. Esmarch made great progress in tourniqueting and the use of a triangular bandage. Also called the Esmarch bandage, the triangular bandage is a versatile tool. It can wrap sprains, bone breaks, and be used to stop bleeding as a tourniquet. The triangular bandage is printed with instructional drawings for users to bind limbs adequately until trained medical professionals are able to attend to the injured. This design was adopted by St. John Ambulance.

Michelle Reguly
Intern

The 80s revived

00576080

Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

The Powerhouse is the perfect museum for ‘The 80s Are Back’. After all, the museum is itself an artefact of the 80s, one of Sydney’s major statements of ‘the design decade’. Its interior and exhibition design displayed a level of sophistication and consistency unprecedented in an Australian museum.

Style exhibition 1

Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

‘The 80s Are Back’ includes some pieces which were on display when the PHM opened in 1988. These include the Carlton room divider/bookcase designed by Ettore Sottsass, founder of the Memphis design collective.

The photo shows this signature statement of postmodernism in the ‘Style’ exhibition in 1988, together with Sottsass’ Treetops floor lamp, which also features in ‘The 80s Are Back’. The ‘Style’ fit out was designed by Iain Halliday, then barely out of design school, one of several young designers whose reputation was boosted by work at the new museum. As part of Burley Katon Halliday, he is now one of Sydney’s design eminences, with a portfolio which expanded from interiors to complete buildings.

Also on display in ‘The 80s Are Back’ is a credenza (or sideboard) designed by Halliday for the PHM boardroom on the top floor of the museum building.

00576091

Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

obj 2009 39 025

Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

Unlike the Memphis works, this piece of 80s flamboyance has not been seen before in public. Together with a large meeting table, the credenza was intended to complement the decorative boardroom interior designed by project architect Lionel Glendenning. As well as being a talking point, the table was to be democratic, not creating any sense of hierarchy among those meeting around it.

The furniture was typical of 1980s design in being expressive and sculptural as well as highly crafted, and combining a range of exotic and prosaic materials. These included silver ash, birch, Macassa ebony veneer and marble as well as aluminium, steel and brass. However when installed in the boardroom, the commissioned furniture quickly became a source of controversy. The surface of the table was damaged at its first meeting, and the Knoll chairs purchased for the boardroom did not interact well with the table.

photo

Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

More generally, the size (more than six metres long) of the table made it impractical to move, meaning that the boardroom could not be used for larger functions or meetings.

By August 1988 a Liberal government had been elected in NSW,new trustees had been appointed to the Museum board andTerence Measham had been appointed as Acting Director. According to Measham,

the Board of Trustees loathed the Halliday board room table with a passion and immediately ordered me to get rid of it…The Trustees were unanimous. Not even the art/design Trustees defended the table… I was a very new Director and dragged my feet over this matter but at the next meeting they were incensed at my falure to carry out their wishes and made it clear that the matter was urgent and not negotiable. As a newly appointed Director I was aware that my terms of employment required me to carry out their orders. Publicly, I wore the blame…

[Communication with the acquiring curator, December 2009]

After a few months use, the furniture was disassembled and placed in storage. Plans were made to display it in the ‘Style’ exhibition, but curators refused to acquire it into the collection, hoping that it would be returned to its original purpose.

The furniture’s banishment resulted not from a failure of its design, which created the ‘jewel’ furniture sought by the brief. Similarly, the museum’s management was facing the challenges posed by the first major multi-disciplinary museum launched in Australia for decades, a status which tested the new building against a new set of practicalities including the need to gain revenue from hire of theatres and other spaces. The boardroom was not the only space to undergo change as a result.

Over two decades, the boardroom furniture gained something of a mythic reputation, an artefact of the heady 80s when the museum was a pioneer of the possibilities of museums and a high profile promoter and product of the best of Australian design. In 2009 I decided to acquire the furniture into the collection, and hopefully to display it in ‘The 80s Are Back’.

No photos could be found of the furniture during its stay in the boardroom. Its reassembly at Castle Hill store produced some surprises notably that the credenza was a larger piece than realised. The lower section consists of two refrigerated spaces beneath a row of drawers, but it was found that the credenza also featured an upper section containing a set of glass shelves within a curved Craftwood wall and intricate folding doors.

00576102

Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

The brass mesh enclosure creates the impression of a postmodern Kalgoorlie safe.

Beautifully made, controversial and striking, the boardroom credenza is back.

Prince William in Sydney

Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

The Powerhouse Museum is no stranger to royalty. In 2007-2008 we hosted the major exhibition Diana: a celebration and we have welcomed many royal visitors and heads of state through our doors, including: Queen Beatrix of the Netherlands and HRH Prince Claus, King Juan Carlos and Queen Sophia of Spain, King Carl XVI Gustaf and Queen Silvia of Sweden, Pope John Paul II, Crown Prince Frederik and Princess Mary of Denmark and…Prince William? Well, no, unfortunately we can’t claim that one yet. But, I hear the Prince has the afternoon at leisure, so there’s still a chance!

As Prince William was a product of the 80s, and the Museum has gone Back to the 80s itself, I thought I’d look at one object in the collection from this decade currently on display that is particularly appropriate to his visit. It is ‘The Royal Family pop-up book’ published in 1984 to celebrate and record “one of the most exciting periods in the lives of the Royal Family”.

Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

As described on the blurb of the book, it contains six ‘moveable’ scenes of the family, illustrated by Roger Payne and narrated by Patrick Montague-Smith with paper engineering by Vic Duppa-Whyte. The book was donated to the Museum in 1994.

Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

The main scene of interest to us in light of Prince William’s visit is ‘The Royal Crawlabout’. It shows the baby Prince on his first visit to New Zealand with Charles and Diana, not long after their tour of Australia (the reverse schedule of Prince William’s current travel plans, which also happens to be his first return visit since the above image was captured!). The text reads:

Following their tour of Australia, the Prince and Princess of Wales flew on to New Zealand, arriving in Auckland on 17 April 1983. Here they received a warm welcome, despite the cold and drizzle. The one member of the Royal Family the people most wanted to see was Prince William, then aged almost ten months. On one of the few fine mornings during their stay, an important engagement was carried out on the lawns of Government House, Auckland: as the Prince said, this was the “Royal Crawlabout”. Accordingly, numerous journalists, photographers and television teams arrived to take up their positions, almost as the Prince warned them that there was no guarantee that William would perform! But no sooner had he been sat on the large floral carpet that he started to crawl in all directions!

Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

The other scenes in the book include a family barbeque at Balmoral Castle (below), the wedding of Prince Charles and Lady Diana Spencer (above), the Prince and Princess of Wales at Ayres Rock, the Prince and Princess of Wales at Fort Edmonton, Canada and Queen Elizabeth II opening Parliament.

Each illustration ‘pops up’ from the page and contains moving sections operated by pull-tabs.

Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

The book is currently on display in the 80s exhibition in the fashion and subcultures section, as Princess Diana and her wedding dress, in particular, had a huge impact on the fashion of the era (many brides couldn’t wait to emulate the puffy sleeves and big shoulders!).

So, Prince William – if you’re looking for things to do this afternoon, the Museum is waiting!

What were they thinking??? Vegemite iSnack 2.0

IMG_0974

Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

We couldn’t let 2009 disappear without acquiring a jar of iSnack 2.0, the shortest-lived Vegemite product in history!

Kraft released this new cheese-based Vegemite spread in July 2009 with a label inviting people to name it. Forty eight thousand Vegemite fans responded and, in late September, the winning entry hit the shelves: iSnack 2.0.

The Australian people were not amused. They made their opinions very clear. An avalanche of protest descended upon newspapers, blog sites, Youtube and talk back radio. Anger, indignation and humour rallied to the defence of our favourite sticky black stuff …and some of it was nothing short of hilarious. Do a Google search on iSnack 2.0 to catch a snippet.

Days later, as a result of the outcry, Kraft set up an internet voting site with a range of alternative names. Vegemite Cheesybite was a clear favourite, so you’ll see it soon in a store near you. Vegemite was renamed once before in 1928 when the company tried to call it Parwill. Not surprisingly, it didn’t catch on either.

00x11289

Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

The new jar will join the Museum’s fabulous collection of Vegemite containers. We have an original lighthouse-shaped jar from1923 when Vegemite was first made, and ‘opal’ glass jars from 1928 to the 1950s. Reusable plastic tumblers made an appearance in the 1940s, followed by clear glass jars in the 1960s and 70s. The 1980s ushered in glass jars with plastic lids, and the 1990s saw the introduction of the plastic tube, no doubt for those who can’t bear to leave their Vegemite at home.

We’re still looking for one of the porcelain jars that were used in 1926. If you’re clearing out your cupboards or the shed over the holidays and come across one of them we’d love to hear from you.

Sandra McEwen
Principal curator
Biosciences & Built Environment

James Watt and the problematic watt

Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

19th January is James Watt’s birthday. Born in 1736, he is remembered mainly for improving the steam engine.

This medal was minted in London in 1827 as one of a series celebrating great men. Watt is also celebrated by several statues and paintings, a university and a library, a shipping dock and a pub, at least two engineering awards, an Austrian coin and a (yet to be released) British banknote. There are streets named after Watt in Birmingham (England), Glasgow (Scotland), Newcastle (NSW), Spotswood (Victoria) and no doubt in many other cities.

His name is also commemorated in the SI unit of power. Unfortunately, having a special name for the unit of power (the rate of supplying or using energy) leads some people to confuse the concepts of energy and power.

Ever been confused about the nautical knot and whether it measures distance or speed? The fact that it measures speed is hidden from view, making it harder to grapple with than plain-speaking units like kilometres per hour. The watt presents the same problem, as the fact that it’s a rate is hidden from view.

Remember James Watt when you next purchase an appliance or pay an electricity account. While your utility must provide enough power (kilowatts) to deliver energy to all your appliances at the appropriate rate, you actually pay for energy, which is billed in kilowatt-hours (kilowatts multiplied by hours of use – just as distance at sea is calculated by multiplying knots by hours).

Watt is celebrated every day at the Powerhouse, as visitors come from around the world to see our Boulton and Watt engine. I’d be interested to hear from you about other ways that he is celebrated.

Lookin’ cool in Courrèges

courreges ensemble

Designed by André Courrèges. Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

Today, we’re going to take a look at a very cool women’s ensemble designed and made by André Courrèges, the Parisian fashion designer, which was sold through Harrods in London in 1965. It comprises a mini-dress made of bright yellow wool with a white vinyl belt and white wool-acrylic coat. The ensemble was designed to be worn with a pair of mid-calf boots, as shown in the image above, and perhaps also a peaked or pill box hat and pair of white gloves.

The geometric shape of this A-line mini-dress is juxtaposed by the organic shape of the fake pockets and belt buckle. And, the yoke (shape around the neckline) evokes a style of children’s clothing.

Yellow Courreges dress

Designed by André Courrèges. Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

Courrèges, who originally trained as a civil engineer, but was always interested in architecture and textiles from an early age, was heavily influenced by the Spanish born couturier, Cristobal Balenciaga, and in fact worked with him for 10 years. He learnt all he possibly could about cut, quality and construction and like Balenciaga, became renowned for making clothes that were perfectly proportioned.

Courreges Inside Out

Designed by André Courrèges. Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

The mini-dress, above, became a fashion statement in the 1960s. In contrast to designers preceding him, especially Dior, Courrèges dared to shorten the length of his dresses so as to elongate the legs and inject a sense of youth and modernity into women’s fashion. Around the same time, Mary Quant was also designing short skirts for women, and there is much debate as to whether it was Quant or Courrèges, who actually first invented the mini-skirt.

The construction in this Courrèges dress appears quite simple. It has been cut symmetrically; the overall shape is rigid and geometric – it has an architectural shape; there is minimal decoration; it is done up by a three-quarter zipper at the back and three eyelet hooks at the neck and the inside is fully lined with white rayon. And, on the outside, Courrèges has used topstitching along the seam lines to emphasise the cut and shape.

Courreges label

Designed by André Courrèges. Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

On the inside is the label ‘COURRÈGES / PARIS / MADE IN FRANCE’.

Courreges zipper

Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

And, the zip is concealed by a flap of fabric.

Courreges dress showing thickness

Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

This image is just to give you a sense of how thick and resistant the wool is.

courregesspaceageImage courtesy of wornthrough.com

Courrèges liked bold, fresh colours – yellow, whites and off-whites, lime green and silver, and for this, as well as his stark shapes, metal bras and bustiers, goggles and helmets, his garments of the mid-late 1960s were dubbed ‘Space Age’. See a YouTube clip here: Andre Courreges \’Space Age\’ on YouTube.

courregesjacket

Designed by André Courrèges. Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

The coat which accompanies this dress is heavy (since it’s made from wool) and is also fully lined in white rayon.

courregesjacketrear

Designed by André Courrèges. Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

It is detailed with gold Courrèges buttons down the front, back and on the cuffs and also has a geometric shape.

courregesboots

Designed by André Courrèges. Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

These mid-calf ‘Go-Go’ boots, which complete the ensemble, were another trademark for Courrèges in the 60s, which he designed to go with almost all his outfits. They feature cream plastic uppers, a leather sole and heel and vinyl lining in the boot and sock.

This particular Courrèges ensemble was worn by a Sydney woman living in Europe who bought the dress at Harrods in London in 1965. In fact, she also told staff at the Museum at the time of acquisition that it was bought just after she left her husband!

I think big purchases like this often come after some kind of emotional upheaval (for better or worse) – whether starting a new job, getting engaged, breaking up with a partner, moving house and so on. But, Courrèges also designed for a mass-market, which shouldn’t be forgotten, and in the 1960s his clothing were among the most copied.

So, would you agree – lookin’ cool in Courrèges? Are/were you ever a fan of the mod look and do you think the ‘Space Ace’ look could have a comeback?

Haiti Disaster

Collection, Powerhouse Museum.

Our hearts and thoughts go out to the people of Haiti as they endure the disaster that has hit their nation.

The symbol on the badge above is recognised the world over as one of the Red Cross Association. As countries across the globe rush to assist the Haiti region in their time of need, organisations such as the Red Cross leap into action (Haiti’s local Red Cross headquarters has sustained significant damage.)

The Australian Red Cross was formed in 1914 and have been vital in responding to some of Australia’s most devastating earthquakes, such as Newcastle in 1989.

May the power of humanity help those in need in Haiti in the coming months, our thoughts are with them.

For more information about the amazing efforts the web community as gone to to respond to this disaster please visit The Ushahidi blog here

The link to the Red Cross is here

and to Medicine Sans Frontiers is here

Pattern Recognition